Cream/Lotion Formulation with High Oil Content (60%) - Cold Process Challenges
Asked by: adisak.jitti
On: March 10, 2017
Product Type:
Cosmetics
Question
I want to formulate a cream/lotion using 40% water-based herbal extract and 60% Fractionated Coconut Oil. I need to know:
- Which emulsifier and percentage should I use to achieve this formulation without applying heat or using a mixer (only hand mixing)?
- Will Polysorbate 20 (Tween 20) make the cream yellow? Is there an alternative emulsifier that provides a white color and is very safe?
Answer
Based on the information provided by the staff, it is not possible to create a stable emulsion with 40% water (herbal extract) and 60% oil (fractionated coconut oil) without using heat and a mixer.
Here's a summary of the possibilities based on the staff's advice:
- To emulsify 60% oil: You would need to use heat and a mixer. The staff recommended using Milk Lotion Maker at 4-5% for this purpose.
- To emulsify using a cold process (no heat, just hand mixing): You would need to significantly reduce the oil content to a maximum of 20%. For this, the staff recommended using Satin Cream Maker at 1.5%.
Regarding your questions:
- Which emulsifier and percentage without heat/mixing? As explained above, you cannot emulsify 60% oil without heat and mixing. If you reduce the oil phase to 20% or less, you can use Satin Cream Maker at 1.5% with just hand mixing.
- Polysorbate 20 (Tween 20) color and alternative for white color and high safety: Polysorbate 20 can sometimes have a pale yellow to yellow color, which might affect the final color of your product if you need it to be pure white. More importantly, Polysorbate 20 is generally used as a solubilizer or co-emulsifier, not typically as a primary emulsifier for creating stable emulsions with high oil percentages like 60%, especially without heat and strong mixing. The staff recommended Milk Lotion Maker (with heat/mixing) or Satin Cream Maker (with reduced oil and cold process) as more suitable primary emulsifiers for creating lotion/cream textures. Both Milk Lotion Maker and Satin Cream Maker are designed to create white or off-white emulsions. They are standard ingredients used in cosmetics.
In conclusion, to achieve a stable mixture, you must either reduce the oil content significantly and use a cold process emulsifier like Satin Cream Maker, or keep the 60% oil content but use heat and mixing with an emulsifier like Milk Lotion Maker.
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Polysorbate 20 (Tween 20)
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Satin Cream Maker™
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