Cream/Lotion Pilling Issue: Causes and Solutions (Mixing Method, Emulsifier)

Question

My cream/lotion formulation pills ("กลายเป็นขี้ไคล") when massaged onto the skin. I am using a handheld blender and have tried different emulsifiers. With Light Cream Maker, it pills. With Luxury Cream Maker (1.5%), it doesn't pill but is too thick to pour. What causes this pilling issue, and what are the recommended solutions, specifically regarding mixing methods and alternative emulsifiers like Satin Mousse, to achieve a pourable texture without pilling?

MySkinRecipes Expert · Accepted Answer

Hello,

Regarding the issue of your cream formulation pilling ("กลายเป็นขี้ไคล") when massaged, based on the discussion, there are two main factors that could be contributing to this problem:

Mixing Method: As the staff mentioned, the type of handheld blender you are using might not be suitable for creating a stable emulsion required for a cream with this composition, especially with a high load of active ingredients and oils. The shape of the mixing head is crucial for properly dispersing and emulsifying the oil and water phases. Insufficient or improper mixing can lead to instability and separation, which can manifest as pilling when the cream is rubbed on the skin. Using a mixer designed for cosmetic emulsions (like the modified drill method suggested by staff or a dedicated overhead stirrer) would likely improve stability.
Emulsifier Choice: While Light Cream Maker is designed for light textures, it might be more prone to pilling in formulas with high concentrations of certain active ingredients or oils when subjected to rubbing/massaging, especially if the emulsion is not perfectly stable due to mixing. You observed that using Luxury Cream Maker solved the pilling issue, although it resulted in a thicker texture. This suggests the emulsifier plays a role.

As suggested by "cosmeceutical7", you could try using Satin Mousse as an alternative emulsifier. Satin Mousse is another emulsifier that can create different textures. It might provide better stability against pilling during massage compared to Light Cream Maker, while potentially allowing for a pourable texture if used at an appropriate percentage (likely less than the 1.5% you used for Luxury Cream Maker, perhaps starting around 1-1.2% and adjusting).

Regardless of the emulsifier used, ensuring thorough and proper mixing with suitable equipment is essential for creating a stable emulsion that will not pill during massage.

We recommend trying to improve your mixing method first, as this is a common cause of instability and pilling. If the problem persists even with improved mixing, then experimenting with Satin Mousse or other emulsifiers designed for more robust emulsions might be necessary to find the right balance between texture and anti-pilling performance for your specific formula.