Cream Texture Issues (Stickiness, Pilling) with Luxury Cream Maker and PEG-40 Hydrogenated Castor Oil Substitution

Advice on PEG-40 Hydrogenated Castor Oil and Cream Texture Improvement

Dear Member,

Regarding your questions about PEG-40 Hydrogenated Castor Oil and improving your cream texture, the team would like to provide the following information:

PEG-40 Hydrogenated Castor Oil

For PEG-40 Hydrogenated Castor Oil, it is available for purchase from our company, but it is not sold directly through the website. If you are interested, please contact customer service at care@myskinrecipes.com to request a quotation and place an order.

Using Polysorbate 20 as a Substitute for PEG-40 Hydrogenated Castor Oil

PEG-40 Hydrogenated Castor Oil and Polysorbate 20 (Tween 20) are high HLB emulsifiers/solubilizers commonly used in conjunction with low HLB emulsifiers to enhance emulsion stability, or as solubilizers for oil-soluble ingredients in water-based formulations.

While both share similar properties as high HLB emulsifiers/solubilizers, they differ in their specific solubility characteristics and interactions within complex formulations. PEG-40 Hydrogenated Castor Oil is often used to solubilize oils or fragrances in water bases, while Polysorbate 20 is also a good solubilizer in water bases but has more limited solubility in oil. Substituting Polysorbate 20 for PEG-40 Hydrogenated Castor Oil in a cream formulation using Luxury Cream Maker as the primary emulsifier may result in different texture and stability outcomes. Therefore, they are not always directly interchangeable.

Improving Cream Texture Using Luxury Cream Maker

Based on the formula you provided, which contains Luxury Cream Maker 6% and a total oil phase of 12% (Fractionated Coconut Oil 4%, Jojoba Oil 4%, Olive CLEAR 4%), along with other ingredients such as Double Hyaluron Liquid, MOIST24, Ceramide Complex, Allantoin, Centella Extract, Vitamin E, Argireline, and Pep-Coll.

The issue of the cream feeling sticky and pilling when applied to the skin, even though the cream appears normal in the jar, can be caused by several factors, including:

• The amount or type of thickener or emulsifier used. Luxury Cream Maker is a polymer that functions as both an emulsifier and a thickener. Using it at a high concentration may create a film on the skin that can pill when rubbed.
• Interactions between certain ingredients in the formula, particularly between polymers and charged ingredients, or large molecule ingredients like Hyaluronic Acid or certain extracts.
• Applying too much product.
• The mixing method or process, which can affect the structure of the cream on the skin.

Your proposed modification of reducing Luxury Cream Maker by 2% and adding 2% PEG-40 Hydrogenated Castor Oil may not be the most suitable approach. Reducing the primary thickener/emulsifier (Luxury Cream Maker) could affect the viscosity and potentially the stability of the emulsion, especially with a 12% oil load. PEG-40 Hydrogenated Castor Oil primarily acts as a solubilizer or co-emulsifier and does not provide significant thickening like Luxury Cream Maker. Adding PEG-40 Hydrogenated Castor Oil may not effectively replace the thickening function and might not resolve the pilling issue, which could stem from the polymer itself or the interaction of other ingredients in the formula.

To improve the texture, reduce stickiness and pilling while maintaining stability and oil content, consider the following approaches:

• Adjust Luxury Cream Maker Concentration: Try slightly reducing the amount of Luxury Cream Maker (e.g., from 6% to 5% or 4%) if the formula remains stable. Lowering the polymer thickener content may help reduce pilling.
• Consider Lighter Emollients: Your formula already contains several oils (Fractionated Coconut Oil, Jojoba Oil, Olive CLEAR) which generally provide a good feel. However, if stickiness persists, you could consider incorporating a small amount of an emollient known for a lighter, less greasy feel and good slip, such as LipidSoft™ Cyclo or LipidSoft™ Palm, to improve the overall texture. (Compatibility with the formula should be tested).
• Review Mixing Procedure: As the staff previously advised, following the correct mixing procedure for this specific formula (heating the oil phase to 70-80°C, the water phase to 60°C, and gradually adding the water phase to the oil phase while mixing) is crucial for achieving a proper cream texture. Appropriate mixing speed and duration also contribute to a smooth cream and can help minimize texture issues.

Any changes to the formulation should be made carefully, and the compatibility and stability of the new formula should always be tested.

If you have any further questions, please feel free to ask.