Creating a DIY Super Antioxidant Serum for Sensitive Skin
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How can I create a DIY Super Antioxidant Serum formulation similar to Paula's Choice for my highly sensitive skin? I am particularly interested in using ingredients like `Tetrahexyldecyl Ascorbate` and other antioxidants, peptides, and skin barrier strengtheners. Please provide guidance on ingredient selection, usage percentages, and the formulation process suitable for sensitive skin.
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Creating a Super Antioxidant Serum Formula Similar to Paula's Choice for Sensitive Skin
Based on the ingredient list you provided for Paula's Choice Super Antioxidant serum, the advice from cosmeceutical7, and product information from MySkinRecipes, it is possible to create a similar formulation focusing on antioxidant and skin-benefiting ingredients. Given your highly sensitive skin, it is crucial to start with a simple base and gradually add ingredients at low concentrations.
Key ingredients available and their usage information:
- Perfect-C™ (Ascorbyl Tetraisopalmitate): A stable, oil-soluble vitamin C. It is a key ingredient for antioxidant benefits and skin brightening. Recommended usage is 5-7%, or up to 10% for higher efficacy.
- Pep®-Coll (Palmitoyl tripeptide-5): A peptide that helps stimulate collagen synthesis. Recommended usage is up to 3%.
- Vitamin E (Tocopheryl Acetate and dl-alpha tocopherol): Antioxidants that protect skin from free radicals. A combined usage of around 0.5-1.0% is recommended to avoid stickiness.
- Pure-Ferulic Acid™: A potent antioxidant often used with Vitamin C and E to enhance their effects.
- Alpha Lipoic Acid (ALA): An antioxidant that also helps with wrinkles. Available as a powder (Alpha Lipoic Acid (ALA) (Powder)) and a ready-to-use oil base (ALA Ready™ (Alpha Lipoic Acid Oil Base)). Should start with low concentrations like 0.3-0.5% as it can cause irritation.
- Beta Glucan: Helps reduce irritation, strengthens the skin barrier, and is suitable for sensitive skin. Recommended usage is 3-5%.
- Glutathione (L-Glutathione) (Extrasol): An antioxidant that also helps with skin brightening.
- Galactomyces Ferment Filtrate (aka Pitera): A yeast ferment extract that nourishes and revitalizes skin. Can be used as an alternative to Saccharomyces/Selenium Ferment.
- Hi-EGCG™ (Green Tea Extract): A green tea extract high in EGCG, a potent antioxidant and anti-inflammatory. Can be used as an alternative to Epigallocatechin Gallate.
- Coenzyme Q10: An antioxidant that helps revitalize skin. Available in oil-soluble (Coenzyme Q10 (98%, Powder, Oil-Soluble)) and water-soluble (Coenzyme Q10 (10%, Encapsulate Powder, Water-Soluble)) forms. Choose based on your formula's base.
- Ceramide Complex: Helps strengthen the skin barrier and provides moisture, ideal for dry and sensitive skin.
Basic Formulation Approach:
- Choose a Base: Given your extreme sensitivity, select a simple and gentle base. This could be a basic oil serum base or a simple emulsion base known to be well-tolerated and free from common irritants.
- Incorporate Key Ingredients: Start with Perfect-C™, Pep®-Coll, and Vitamin E within the suggested concentration ranges.
- Add Other Ingredients Cautiously: Gradually introduce other antioxidants and beneficial ingredients one by one, starting at the lowest recommended concentrations (e.g., 0.1% or less for many) and carefully observing your skin's reaction.
- Consider Sensitive Skin Ingredients: Beta Glucan and Ceramide Complex are excellent additions for strengthening sensitive skin.
- Include Preservatives: Use appropriate and gentle preservatives to prevent contamination and extend shelf life.
- Testing: Most importantly, always patch test each individual ingredient before incorporating it into your formula. Once the formula is complete, patch test the final product on a small, inconspicuous area of skin before applying it widely.
Formulating for sensitive skin requires patience and careful observation of your skin's response. If you experience any irritation, discontinue the use of that ingredient or the final product immediately.
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Pep®-Coll (Palmitoyl tripeptide-5)
Vitamin E (Tocopheryl Acetate)
Pure-Ferulic Acid™
Vitamin E (dl-alpha tocopherol)
Alpha Lipoic Acid (ALA) (Powder)
Beta Glucan (Saccharomyces cerevisiae extract)
Glutathione (L-Glutathione) (Extrasol)
Galactomyces Ferment Filtrate (aka Pitera)
Perfect-C™ (Ascorbyl Tetraisopalmitate)
Hi-EGCG™ (Green Tea Extract)
Coenzyme Q10 (98%, Powder, Oil-Soluble)
ALA Ready™ (Alpha Lipoic Acid Oil Base)