Creating a Heavy Night Cream using Luxury Cream Maker

Question

I want to create a night cream with a heavy, oily texture suitable for cold weather. I was considering using Rich Cream Maker, but I understand its oil phase limit is around 10%, which makes it difficult to achieve the desired heavy feel. What is the best way to formulate a cream with a heavy, oily texture, perhaps using a different emulsifier or approach? I am looking for a texture that feels heavy and provides a significant coating on the skin, similar to what might be preferred in Western formulations for dry/cold conditions. I am also interested in understanding if there are alternative textures like a light feel with a heavy coating (e.g., Water-in-Oil emulsions) and how they compare.

MySkinRecipes Expert · Accepted Answer

Creating a Heavy Night Cream

You are looking to create a night cream with a heavy, oily texture suitable for cold weather. You considered using Rich Cream Maker but noted its limitation on the oil phase (up to 10%).

The expert's recommendation is to use Luxury Cream Maker instead of Rich Cream Maker.

Why Luxury Cream Maker?

Rich Cream Maker is limited to incorporating an oil phase of up to 10%, which makes it challenging to achieve a truly heavy and oily feel. Luxury Cream Maker, on the other hand, is designed to handle a higher percentage of oils and butters. Increasing the oil and butter content is the most effective way to create the rich, occlusive texture you desire for a heavy night cream, especially for cold conditions where more skin protection is needed.

Recommended Approach

Follow the expert's suggestion to use Luxury Cream Maker and incorporate a higher percentage of nourishing oils and butters.

Here is the sample formulation provided by the expert as a starting point:

Luxury Cream Maker: 3%
Shea Butter: 10%
Jojoba Oil: 10%
Remaining percentage: Water and water-soluble active ingredients

This combination, particularly the higher levels of Shea Butter and Jojoba Oil, will result in a cream with a heavy, coating feel, which is often preferred in Western formulations for dry or cold conditions.

Alternative Texture

The expert also mentioned an alternative approach using Water-Capsule™ or Water-in-Oil EZ™ to create a Water-in-Oil emulsion. This type of emulsion provides a "light texture but heavy coating feel," which is a different sensory experience compared to the heavy, oily texture achieved with a high oil-in-water formulation using Luxury Cream Maker. If you prefer a lighter initial feel that still provides significant barrier protection, the Water-in-Oil approach could be considered, but for a cream that is explicitly "heavy and oily," the Water-in-Oil EZ™ method is more direct.

In summary, to achieve a heavy, oily night cream, it is recommended to use Luxury Cream Maker and increase the percentage of oils and butters in your formulation, following the principle shown in the expert's sample.