Creating Gel Texture for Facial Cleanser using Different Thickeners

Question

I am trying to formulate a gel facial cleanser using various surfactants like CocoBetain and Creamy Foamer. I have encountered issues with different thickeners:

I tried using Pro Polymer, but it didn't seem suitable.
When using SugarThick, it didn't form a gel.
When using Carbomer and Triethanolamine, I had difficulty dissolving the Carbomer and experienced excessive foaming.
I also considered using Light Cream Maker.

Could you please advise on the correct method to achieve a gel texture for this type of formula using SugarThick or Carbomer + Triethanolamine, and whether Pro Polymer or Light Cream Maker are appropriate? Also, how can I avoid the issues I encountered?

MySkinRecipes Expert · Accepted Answer

Subject: Creating Gel Cleanser Texture

Regarding your questions about formulating a gel facial cleanser:

Using Pro Polymer: Pro Polymer (234) is not suitable for creating a gel texture in this specific formula containing these surfactants.
Using SugarThick: SugarThick (510) is actually the most suitable option for this formula as it helps avoid excessive foam. The reason it didn't gel in your attempt was likely the method. The correct procedure is to first mix the surfactants (CocoBetain (160), Creamy Foamer (305)) and other ingredients. Then, warm the entire mixture to around 60-70°C. Add the SugarThick (510) and stir or mix gently until it is fully dissolved. The gel texture will form as the mixture cools down to room temperature. Do not measure the thickness while it is hot.
Using Carbomer: The Carbomer (651) and Triethanolamine (139) combination works well to create a gel. To address the difficulty dissolving Carbomer and the foaming issue, first disperse the Carbomer (651) in water and neutralize it with Triethanolamine (139) to form the gel base. Then, add the surfactants (CocoBetain (160), Creamy Foamer (305)) and other ingredients. Stir gently to combine and avoid high-speed mixing, which causes foam.
Using Light Cream Maker: A cream maker like Light Cream Maker (141) cannot be used to create a gel texture for a cleansing formula. It serves a different purpose (emulsifying oils and water to form creams/lotions) and would likely leave a residue on the skin after washing.

In summary, to achieve the desired gel texture, you can either:

Use SugarThick (510) following the correct warming and addition method.
Use Carbomer (651) + Triethanolamine (139), ensuring Carbomer is dissolved and gel formed before adding surfactants, and mixing gently.
Alternatively, increase the concentration of the surfactants (CocoBetain (160) and Creamy Foamer (305)) in your formula, as these surfactants can thicken the mixture on their own at higher percentages.