Custom Gel Formulation for Brightening & Anti-Aging and Compatibility with Vitamin C Serum

ถามโดย: vaschara.pizza เมื่อ: February 02, 2015 ประเภทผลิตภัณฑ์: เครื่องสำอาง

คำถาม

I have combination skin and am 35 years old. My acne has cleared up after using a DIY gel formulation from this site for a while. I want my skin to be brighter, clearer, and more plump. I want to add two more ingredients (items 1 and 2) to my existing formula. Is the proposed formula suitable, and is it appropriate to use it with the 15% Vitamin C serum (Glutathione formula from this site) by applying the serum before the gel in both the morning and evening?

Proposed Gel Formula Ingredients:

  1. Repair Activator 10%
  2. Activated Resorcinol 1%
  3. Vit3 5%
  4. Glucosamine 4%
  5. Pep-coll 5%
  6. Argireline 10%
  7. Double Hyalulon 2%
  8. Preservative 1%
    • Remaining part is water.

Usage Question: Is it suitable to use the 15% Vitamin C serum (Glutathione formula from this site) by applying it before this gel formulation in both the morning and evening?

คำตอบ

Analysis of Your Proposed Gel Formula and Routine

Based on your goal of achieving brighter and more supple skin after successfully managing acne, your proposed formula includes several beneficial ingredients. Let's break down the suitability:

Proposed Gel Formula Ingredients:

  • Repair Activator (10%): This ingredient (like Repair Activator BG) helps repair skin DNA damaged by UV light and has anti-aging benefits. The concentration of 10% is within the recommended usage range.
  • Activated Resorcinol (1%): This is a potent skin brightening agent (Activated Resorcinol). It works by inhibiting pigment production. The 1% concentration is the maximum recommended for leave-on products, which should provide significant brightening effects. However, at this concentration, there is a potential for irritation, especially for sensitive skin. It's often recommended to combine it with anti-irritants. Also, Activated Resorcinol is oil-soluble and light-sensitive, requiring careful formulation (e.g., using an oil phase, adding Disodium EDTA, and packaging in opaque containers) to ensure stability and efficacy in a gel base.
  • Vit3 (Safe-B3, 5%): Vitamin B3 or Niacinamide (Safe-B3) is excellent for reducing hyperpigmentation, strengthening the skin barrier, reducing oiliness, and improving skin texture and wrinkles. 5% is a very effective concentration and well within the recommended range for Safe-B3, which is known for its high purity and lower risk of flushing compared to standard Niacinamide.
  • Glucosamine (GlucoBright, 4%): N-Acetyl Glucosamine (GlucoBright) works synergistically with Niacinamide to enhance skin brightening and reduce dark spots. It also helps boost the skin's natural Hyaluronic Acid production for hydration and can aid in gentle exfoliation. 4% is within the recommended usage range and pairs well with 5% Niacinamide.
  • Pep-coll (5%): This peptide (Pep-Coll) stimulates collagen synthesis, helping to reduce wrinkles and improve skin firmness. 5% is at the higher end of the recommended range (1-5%, with 3% often recommended), which should provide good anti-aging benefits.
  • Argireline (10%): Acetyl Hexapeptide-8 (Argireline) is known for its ability to reduce expression wrinkles by relaxing facial muscles. 10% is within the recommended range (3-10%) and can be effective for targeting dynamic wrinkles, especially around the eyes and forehead. It pairs well with Pep-Coll.
  • Double Hyaluron (2%): This provides hydration (Double Hyaluron Liquid), with both standard and nano-sized molecules to moisturize different layers of the skin. While beneficial, 2% is slightly below the generally recommended concentration for normal to dry skin (3-5%), so you might consider increasing this for more intense hydration, depending on your gel base.
  • Preservative (1%): A preservative is essential for preventing microbial growth. The suitability depends on the specific type of preservative used and its compatibility with the other ingredients and the overall pH of the formula.

Overall Suitability of the Gel Formula: The combination of ingredients is powerful for targeting brightening, anti-aging, and hydration. The concentrations are generally appropriate, though the inclusion of oil-soluble Activated Resorcinol in a water-based gel requires careful formulation techniques to ensure it is properly dissolved and stable. The pH of the final formula should ideally be in the range of 4.5-5.5 for optimal stability and efficacy of Activated Resorcinol and Safe-B3.

Using 15% Vitamin C Serum Before the Gel:

You are using a 15% Vitamin C serum (specifically mentioning a Glutathione formula, likely similar to a product like 16% Vitamin C Brightening Serum which contains Ascorbic Acid and Glutathione) before applying your gel. Ascorbic Acid is a potent antioxidant and brightener, and Glutathione also contributes to antioxidant and potential brightening effects.

However, applying a highly acidic Vitamin C serum (Ascorbic Acid solutions typically have a low pH, around 2.5-3.5) immediately before a formula containing Niacinamide (Safe-B3) and Activated Resorcinol could potentially lead to issues:

  1. Potential for Irritation: The combination of a low pH Vitamin C and ingredients like Niacinamide and Activated Resorcinol (especially Activated Resorcinol at 1%) might increase the risk of skin irritation, redness, or flushing in some individuals.
  2. Reduced Efficacy: The significant difference in pH between the acidic Vitamin C serum and the optimal pH range for Activated Resorcinol (4.5-5.5) and Niacinamide (4.0-7.0) could potentially reduce the effectiveness of these ingredients in your gel if applied too quickly one after the other.

Recommendation for Usage: To minimize potential irritation and ensure the best efficacy of all your active ingredients, it would be more suitable to:

  • Use the 15% Vitamin C serum in your morning routine and the gel formula in your evening routine, or vice versa.
  • If you prefer to use both in the same routine, apply the Vitamin C serum and wait at least 20-30 minutes for your skin's pH to return to normal before applying the gel. This allows each product to work optimally at its intended pH.

In summary, your proposed gel formula has a strong combination of actives for brightening, anti-aging, and hydration. Pay attention to the formulation aspects, especially regarding Activated Resorcinol. Be cautious when layering it with a high-concentration, low-pH Vitamin C serum and consider separating their application times to avoid potential irritation and ensure maximum benefits from each product.

ผลิตภัณฑ์ที่เกี่ยวข้องที่กล่าวถึง

Acetyl Hexapeptide-8 (eq Argireline)
Acetyl Hexapeptide-8 (eq Argireline)
เครื่องสำอาง
Pep®-Coll (Palmitoyl tripeptide-5)
Pep®-Coll (Palmitoyl tripeptide-5)
เครื่องสำอาง
Safe-B3™ (Vitamin B3, Niacinamide)
Safe-B3™ (Vitamin B3, Niacinamide)
เครื่องสำอาง
GlucoBright™ (Acetyl Glucosamine)
GlucoBright™ (Acetyl Glucosamine)
เครื่องสำอาง
Double Hyaluron Liquid
Double Hyaluron Liquid
เครื่องสำอาง
Activated Resorcinol™ (4-Butyl Resorcinol)
Activated Resorcinol™ (4-Butyl Resorcinol)
เครื่องสำอาง
Glutathione (L-Glutathione Reduced)
Glutathione (L-Glutathione Reduced)
เครื่องสำอาง