Custom Gel/Serum Formulation for Oily, Acne-Prone Skin & Product Layering

Asked by: salinthip.susi On: January 07, 2018 Product Type: Cosmetics

Question

I have oily, dehydrated, acne-prone skin with various types of acne and post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation (dark spots) and erythema (red marks).

I want to create a custom gel/serum using a Pure Aloe Vera Gel base and the following ingredients:

  • Double Hyaluron Liquid
  • Natural Moisturizing Amino Acids
  • MOIST72™
  • Rhamnose
  • Licorice Extract (Licochalcone A)
  • AcneBee™ Extra
  • Natural Bisabolol
  • SKIN-DEFENSE® V
  • Phospholipid

My questions are:

  1. Can I add all these ingredients to a Pure Aloe Vera Gel base?
  2. Can I use this custom gel/serum formula together with Stabilized Vitamin C (Natural-C Glycol™) Serum and Tea Tree Oil (Water Soluble)?
  3. What is the correct order of application for these three products (custom gel/serum, Stabilized Vitamin C Serum, Tea Tree Oil Water Soluble) in my routine?

Answer

Skincare for Oily, Dehydrated, Acne-Prone Skin with Marks

You have a common combination of skin issues: excess oil and enlarged pores, alongside dehydration, acne (various types), and post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation (dark spots) and erythema (red marks). The goal is to create a routine that addresses these multiple concerns.

1. Adding Ingredients to Pure Aloe Vera Gel Base

You can generally add various active ingredients to a suitable base like Pure Aloe Vera Gel. However, there are a couple of points to consider regarding the specific ingredients and the type of Aloe Vera Gel base:

  • Aloe Vera Gel Base: MySkinRecipes offers different types, including Aloe Vera Gel (Heavy) and Aloe Vera Gel (Lite). Both are designed as bases for mixing.
  • Ingredient Compatibility:
    • Most of the water-soluble ingredients you listed, such as Double Hyaluron Liquid, Natural Moisturizing Amino Acids, MOIST72™, Rhamnose, Licorice Extract (Licochalcone A), and AcneBee™ Extra, are compatible with a water-based gel like Aloe Vera Gel.
    • However, Double Hyaluron Liquid is explicitly listed as incompatible with Aloe Vera Gel (Lite). If you plan to use Double Hyaluron Liquid, you should use the Aloe Vera Gel (Heavy) base or choose a different base that is compatible with hyaluronic acid.
    • Ingredients like Natural Bisabolol and SKIN-DEFENSE® V are oil-soluble. Phospholipid also requires both water and oil phases to disperse properly. Incorporating these into a purely water-based gel like Aloe Vera Gel (which is oil-free) might be challenging and could require the addition of a co-emulsifier or using a base designed to handle oil-soluble components.
    • MOIST72™ and AcneBee™ Extra should be added in the final step of mixing, ensuring the temperature is below 40°C for MOIST72™ and below 65°C for AcneBee™ Extra for optimal efficacy.

In summary, while many ingredients are compatible, you need to be mindful of the specific type of Aloe Vera Gel base used (avoiding Lite if using Double Hyaluron Liquid) and the solubility of oil-soluble ingredients.

2. Using the Formula with Stabilized Vitamin C Serum and Tea Tree Oil (Water Soluble)

Yes, your proposed gel/serum formula can be used in conjunction with Stabilized Vitamin C (Natural-C Glycol™) Serum and Tea Tree Oil (Water Soluble).

  • Stabilized Vitamin C (Natural-C Glycol™) Serum: This product is sold as a finished serum and is not intended for mixing with other ingredients. You should use it as a separate step in your routine. It is effective for brightening and reducing the appearance of acne marks.
  • Tea Tree Oil (Water Soluble): This can be mixed into your gel formula (up to 2% for facial products) or used as a separate serum. It is beneficial for acne-prone skin due to its antibacterial properties.

3. Order of Application

When layering skincare products, a common guideline is to apply from the thinnest consistency to the thickest, and to apply pH-dependent products first.

A suggested order for your routine could be:

  1. Stabilized Vitamin C (Natural-C Glycol™) Serum: Apply this first after cleansing and toning. Vitamin C serums are often formulated at a low pH for optimal absorption and efficacy.
  2. Your custom gel/serum formula: Apply this after the Vitamin C serum has absorbed. This gel contains your moisturizing, anti-inflammatory, and oil-controlling ingredients.
  3. Tea Tree Oil (Water Soluble) (if used as a separate serum): If you choose not to mix the Tea Tree Oil into your main gel, you could apply a few drops of the water-soluble version before your main gel/serum, depending on consistency. However, mixing it into your gel is often simpler.
  4. Follow with any other products in your routine (e.g., moisturizer if needed, sunscreen in the morning).

This layering approach allows each product to deliver its intended benefits. Remember to listen to your skin and adjust the routine as needed.