Custom Serum Formulation for Oily, Aging Skin

Question

I would like to order a custom serum formulation for anti-aging and skin strengthening.

User profile: 40 years old, oily skin, wrinkles, rough skin due to age, large pores, clogged pores, dark spots.
If I want the serum texture to be a gel to be lightweight and suitable for oily skin, can it be formulated?
Can Retinal (Retinaldehyde) and Ethyl Ascorbic acid be in the same formula?
If the formula contains Ethyl Ascorbic acid, can it be applied after a serum containing Niacinamide?
Can this formula be produced? Most ingredients need to be dissolved in oil, but the team previously advised that oily skin should not have oil in the formula. However, I have tried peptides and haven't seen much effect for someone aged 40, so I want to try retinol. But retinol in finished products usually contains a lot of oil and Silicone, which doesn't seem suitable for oily skin, so I want to produce it myself.
The proposed formula is as follows. Please advise:
- น้ำกลั่น 75.37%
- Retinal (Retinaldehyde) 0.05%
- Protec™ OX 0.05%
- Protec™ UV 0.03%
- Protec™ SQ 3%
- Ethyl Ascorbic acid 3%
- Cholesterol 3%
- Ceramide 2 (Ceramide NG) 1%
- Hyaluronic Acid (Small Molecule) 0.1%
- Resveratrol LongMax™ 2%
- Phytosphingosine SA 0.2%
- Dipotassium Glycyrrhizate 1%
- Panthenol (Pro Vitamin B5) 1%
- LipidSoft™ F (Ethyl Linoleate) 1%
- Tocotrienols 2%
- PPG-3 Myristyl Ether 3%
- Ethoxydiglycol 2%
- Hydroxyethyl Cellulose (HEC) 1%
- Disodium EDTA 0.2%
- Mild Preserved Eco™ 1%

MySkinRecipes Expert · Accepted Answer

Subject: Advice on Retinol Serum Formulation

Thank you for your inquiry regarding a custom serum formulation for anti-aging and skin strengthening, specifically targeting wrinkles, roughness, large pores, clogged pores, and dark spots on oily skin.

Regarding your questions:

Gel Texture for Oily Skin: Yes, a gel texture is generally suitable for oily skin as it is lightweight and absorbs quickly. The inclusion of Hydroxyethyl Cellulose (HEC) in your proposed formula is appropriate for creating a gel texture.
Retinal and Ethyl Ascorbic Acid Compatibility: It is possible to combine Retinal (Retinaldehyde) and Ethyl Ascorbic acid in the same formula. Both are potent active ingredients. Ethyl Ascorbic Acid is a stable form of Vitamin C. However, formulating them together requires careful consideration of pH and stability to ensure efficacy and minimize potential irritation. A well-designed formulation is crucial.
Layering Ethyl Ascorbic Acid and Niacinamide Serums: Yes, you can safely apply a serum containing Ethyl Ascorbic acid after a serum containing Niacinamide. These ingredients are generally compatible and can offer synergistic benefits for the skin.
Feasibility of the Proposed Formula: While the ingredients you've selected are beneficial for your skin concerns, the proposed formula structure as a simple gel is likely not feasible or stable. Your formula contains several ingredients that are oil-soluble or lipid-based (such as Retinal, Protec™ OX, UV, SQ, Cholesterol, Ceramides, Phytosphingosine SA, Resveratrol, LipidSoft™ F, PPG-3 Myristyl Ether). These ingredients cannot be properly incorporated into a simple water-based gel thickened only with HEC without an appropriate emulsification or solubilization system. They would separate.
Advice on the Formula: The ingredients you've chosen are excellent for addressing your concerns (anti-aging, strengthening, dark spots, etc.). However, to create a stable and effective product with a light texture suitable for oily skin, the formulation structure needs to be adjusted. You will need to incorporate an emulsifier or a suitable solubilizer system to properly blend the oil-soluble/lipid ingredients with the water phase and the gelling agent. A light emulsion-gel or a similar system would be more appropriate than a simple gel. We recommend consulting with a formulator to develop a stable and elegant texture that incorporates these beneficial ingredients effectively while remaining suitable for oily skin.

The ingredients you selected are high-quality actives. With the right formulation expertise, a serum targeting your concerns with a suitable texture for oily skin can be created.