Customizing Absolue Soft Cream Base with Actives and Addressing Oiliness

Question

I want to purchase 1 kg of Absolue Soft Cream Base to use as a morning cream before makeup. I plan to add the following ingredients: Panthenol ( Pro Vitamin B5 , DL- Panthenol , Powder) 1%: Should I add this directly to the cream, or should I mix it with water first? Capryloyl Salicylic Acid (LHA) Powder 1%: Can I add this directly to the cream base? Will it dissolve since the base contains oil? If it doesn't dissolve, what should I do? Should I heat the cream base? If so, what temperature should I heat it to ensure the active ingredients from the manufacturer are not affected? Pure-Adenosine 0.5%: Can this be dispersed directly into the cream after adding the ingredients from steps 1 and 2? If not, what should I do? Based on steps 1-3, are there any additional ingredients needed for mixing? If so, please provide the ingredient name, percentage, and method so I can purchase them together. After mixing according to the recommendations, will the cream feel oily? The base already contains silica. If it feels oily, what should I add to reduce oiliness? (Especially since I apply sunscreen afterwards, which is very oily). Please provide a link to the ingredient, percentage, and method.

MySkinRecipes Expert · Accepted Answer

Customizing Absolue Soft Cream Base

Here are the instructions for adding Panthenol, Capryloyl Salicylic Acid (LHA), and Pure-Adenosine to your Absolue Soft Cream Base, along with tips for reducing oiliness.

Adding Ingredients

Panthenol (Vitamin B5, DL-Panthenol, Powder) 1%: This powder is easily soluble in water. You can add it directly to the Absolue Soft Cream Base and stir well until it dissolves completely.
Capryloyl Salicylic Acid (LHA) Powder 1%: LHA is oil-soluble and typically requires heating to 70-80°C to dissolve. While the Absolue Soft Cream Base contains oils, adding the powder directly might result in incomplete dissolution. You can try adding it directly and stirring vigorously. If it doesn't dissolve, you may need to gently warm the cream base slightly (do not exceed 40-50°C if possible, to avoid potentially affecting the base's stability) and stir until the LHA dissolves. Avoid high heat.
Pure-Adenosine™ 0.5%: This ingredient is dispersed in cream or gel. Add the powder to the cream base after the Panthenol and LHA have been incorporated. Stir well to ensure it is evenly dispersed throughout the cream.

Mixing Method: Add each ingredient one by one to the Absolue Soft Cream Base, stirring thoroughly after each addition until fully incorporated or dispersed.

Additional Ingredients Needed?

Based on the properties of the ingredients and the cream base, you do not necessarily need additional solvents or emulsifiers to incorporate these three ingredients at the recommended percentages.

Addressing Oiliness

The Absolue Soft Cream Base contains ingredients like Dimethicone and Silica, which contribute to its texture. If you find the resulting cream too oily, especially when layering with sunscreen, you can add an oil-absorbing powder like MatteSilica 5XL™ (5 Micron, Max Oil Absorb).

MatteSilica 5XL™: This powder is designed to absorb excess oil and provide a matte finish. It can be added to the cream base in the final step.
Recommended Usage Rate: Start with 1-3% of MatteSilica 5XL™ and adjust the percentage based on your desired level of oil absorption and texture. Add the powder gradually to the finished cream and stir well until evenly dispersed.

By following these steps, you can customize your Absolue Soft Cream Base to include the desired active ingredients and adjust its finish to be less oily.