Day Serum Formulation Feedback for Anti-Aging and Brightening
Question
I want to create a day serum for skin aged 30+ that provides noticeable results in:
- Reducing existing wrinkles
- Preventing new wrinkles
- Providing moisture
- Making skin bright and pinkish
The desired texture is a serum that is not too thick, absorbs quickly, and is non-sticky. It should be suitable for applying sunscreen and makeup over it. It should also be suitable for sensitive skin and not cause acne.
I have drafted a formulation as follows:
- Wrinkle-Lax 1%
- Lift now 1%
- Ectoine 2%
- Repair Activator 8%
- DPHP 3%
- Glycosaminoglycans Complex 3%
- Safe-B3 8%
- GlucoBright 5%
- Orange Peel Extract 2%
- Grape Seed Extract 2%
- Allantoin 1%
- Pure-Phytosterol 1%
- Natural PHA 1%
- HydroUrea powder 3%
- Silky Serum Base 10%
- Magnesium Sulfate 1%
- SelectSorb 1%
- Siliwax Aqua 1%
- Laurocapram 2%
- Mild Preserved Eco 1%
- sterile water 42%
Will the serum texture and properties match my design? Do I need to adjust the ingredient ratios?
Answer
Formulation Feedback for Day Serum
Thank you for sharing your detailed day serum formulation for mature skin. You have selected a range of excellent active ingredients targeting wrinkles, hydration, and brightening.
Based on the ingredients and their properties, the proposed formulation is rich in beneficial actives like Wrinkle-Lax, Lift-Now, Ectoine, Repair Activator, DPHP, Glycosaminoglycans Complex, Safe-B3, GlucoBright, Orange Peel Extract, Grape Seed Extract, Allantoin, Pure-Phytosterols, Natural PHA, and HydroUrea. These ingredients collectively address your goals of reducing existing wrinkles, preventing new ones, providing moisture, and promoting brighter skin.
However, there is a significant compatibility issue with the chosen base, Silky Serum Base, and some of your selected ingredients, specifically DPHP and Pure-Phytosterols. These two ingredients are oil-soluble and require heating to dissolve properly in an oil phase. The Silky Serum Base is designed for water-based formulas and cannot effectively incorporate oil-soluble components. Attempting to mix them as proposed will likely result in an unstable serum with separation, preventing these key anti-aging ingredients from being evenly distributed and effectively delivered to the skin.
Furthermore, the required heating temperature for DPHP and Pure-Phytosterols (80-85°C) is higher than the maximum temperature recommended for several other heat-sensitive ingredients in your formula, such as Glycosaminoglycans Complex, Orange Peel Extract, Grape Seed Extract, Laurocapram, and Wrinkle-Lax (all below 40-60°C).
Due to these incompatibilities and conflicting mixing requirements, the proposed formulation, while containing potent ingredients, is unlikely to achieve the desired stable, homogenous serum texture that is light, fast-absorbing, and non-sticky. It may also compromise the efficacy of the ingredients that cannot be properly dissolved or mixed.
To achieve your goals, you may need to consider adjusting the formulation in one of the following ways:
- Option 1: Remove oil-soluble ingredients. Exclude DPHP and Pure-Phytosterols from the formula. While this simplifies mixing and is compatible with the Silky Serum Base, it would reduce the formula's comprehensive anti-wrinkle efficacy.
- Option 2: Choose a different base/system. Select a serum base or create an emulsification system (e.g., an oil-in-water emulsion) that is capable of incorporating both water-soluble and oil-soluble ingredients and allows for the necessary heating steps for DPHP and Pure-Phytosterols before combining with heat-sensitive components. This would be a more complex formulation process but would allow you to include all your desired active ingredients.
Additionally, while the ingredients are generally suitable for sensitive skin, the high concentration of multiple actives could potentially cause irritation for some individuals. It is always recommended to perform a patch test before applying the product to the entire face.
In summary, while your ingredient selection is excellent for targeting the signs of aging, the proposed formulation with Silky Serum Base is not technically feasible for incorporating the oil-soluble components. Adjusting the base or the ingredient list is necessary to create a stable and effective serum.
Related Products Mentioned
Safe-B3™ (Vitamin B3, Niacinamide)
Allantoin
GlucoBright™ (Acetyl Glucosamine)
Urea (High Purity, Cosmetics, Powder)
Lift-Now™
Silky Serum Base (Face/Eye)
Natural PHA (Gluconolactone)
Dipalmitoyl Hydroxyproline (DPHP)
Grape Seed Extract (Proanthocyanidins)
Wrinkle-Lax™ คลายริ้วรอย
Pure-Phytosterols™
Ectoine (Ectoin, from Bio-fermentation)
SelectSorb™ (High Oil Absorption PMMA)
Laurocapram (Water Soluble)