Daytime Serum Formulation Review: Allantoin Solubility and Whitening Ingredients

Asked by: siranant.pooliam On: June 13, 2013 Product Type: Cosmetics

Question

I am developing a serum formulation for daytime use (50ml) with the following ingredients:

  • Allantoin 0.4%
  • Azelaic Acid
  • Vitamin B3 (Niacinamide)
  • Panthenol
  • Glucosamine
  • Hyaluronic Acid (Standard Molecule)
  • Hyaluronic Acid (Nano Molecule)

Could you please review this formula and advise if the ingredient percentages and compatibility are suitable for a daytime serum, particularly regarding the Allantoin concentration?

Answer

Hello,

Regarding the serum formulation you provided for daytime use (50ml):

Based on the previous feedback from our staff:

  • Allantoin: The concentration of 0.4% is too high and will not fully dissolve in the amount of water in your formula. The staff recommended using no more than 0.38%, suggesting a concentration of 0.3% to 0.35% for better solubility and safety margin.
  • Other Ingredients: The concentrations of Azelaic Acid, Vitamin B3 (Niacinamide), Panthenol, Glucosamine, Hyaluronic Acid (Standard and Nano Molecule), and the amount of water are considered okay by the staff.

Please adjust the Allantoin concentration according to the staff's recommendation (0.3% - 0.35%).

Also, as the staff mentioned, remember to use sunscreen during the day, as it is crucial for preventing melasma recurrence or new spots. If you find the whitening effect insufficient after trying this adjusted formula, you could consider adding Alpha Arbutin, although it is a more expensive ingredient.

Thank you.