Daytime Toner Formula for Acne Scars and Persistent Acne Issues

Asked by: seaoui1986 On: January 29, 2015 Product Type: Cosmetics

Question

Following up on using a BHA toner at night which has improved acne and skin texture but not scars, I am planning to make a daytime toner formula. I would like feedback on the proposed formula below, specifically on what to add or remove to help with skin nourishment and acne scars.

My proposed daytime toner formula is:

  • น้ำ (Water) 75%
  • B3 5%
  • B5 3%
  • B12 2%
  • Zinc 1%
  • Licorice 1%
  • Msm 3%
  • Green tea 3%
  • sea kelp 5%
  • Copper 2%

The goal is to nourish the face in the morning and help a little with scar marks. What should I add or reduce? I also have persistent inflammatory acne on my jawline and chin.

Answer

Subject: Re: BHA Toner Review and Questions

Thank you for sharing your experience with the BHA toner formula and for asking about your proposed daytime formula and persistent acne.

It's great to hear that your night BHA toner has been effective in improving your acne and skin texture! It sounds like a well-formulated product for your needs. Healing of acne scars (especially hyperpigmentation or textural changes) often takes longer than clearing active breakouts.

Regarding your proposed daytime toner formula:

  • Overall Goal: Your goal is nourishment and helping with scar marks. The ingredients you've chosen generally support skin health.
  • Moisture Level: As mentioned in the reply, your formula contains several ingredients that provide hydration and soothing (B5, B12, MSM, Sea Kelp). Consider your skin type – if it's already oily, this level of moisture might be sufficient or even more than needed. If your skin is drier, this blend could be beneficial.
  • Ingredients for Scars:
    • Niacinamide (B3) at 5% is excellent for barrier function, reducing inflammation, pore appearance, and can help fade hyperpigmentation over time.
    • Zinc is good for oil control and soothing, which helps prevent new breakouts that could lead to more scars.
    • Licorice, Green Tea, MSM, and Copper peptides offer antioxidant, anti-inflammatory, and potential skin-repairing benefits, contributing to overall skin health which can indirectly help the skin heal and improve the appearance of marks.
    • As pointed out, Vitamin B12 is not typically used for fading hyperpigmentation/scar marks. Its benefit might be related to soothing or reducing irritation. You can keep it if you feel it adds value in that regard, or remove it if you want to streamline the formula towards scar treatment.
  • Suggestions for Scar Marks: To specifically target hyperpigmentation (red or dark marks left by acne), you could consider adding ingredients known for their brightening properties, such as:
    • Vitamin C derivatives: (e.g., Sodium Ascorbyl Phosphate (SAP), Magnesium Ascorbyl Phosphate (MAP)). These are antioxidants and can help fade dark spots.
    • Alpha Arbutin: A well-known skin brightener that targets melanin production.
    • Tranexamic Acid: Can help reduce redness and dark spots, particularly post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation.
    • Mild Exfoliants: While you use BHA at night, very low concentrations of AHAs (like Lactic Acid) or PHAs could potentially aid cell turnover during the day, but be cautious about over-exfoliation, especially when combining with night BHA. Ensure sun protection is diligent if using exfoliants.
  • What to potentially remove/adjust: As suggested, consider if B12 is essential for your primary goals. You might also adjust the concentration of moisturizing ingredients based on your skin's needs.

Regarding the persistent inflammatory acne on your jawline/chin:

  • Acne in this specific area, especially if it's deep, cystic, and persistent, is often referred to as "hormonal acne."
  • While topical treatments help manage symptoms, persistent jawline acne can sometimes be influenced by internal factors such as hormonal imbalances, stress levels, certain dietary factors (like high sugar or dairy intake in some individuals), or even underlying medical conditions.
  • Since this has been a long-standing issue that hasn't fully resolved with your current routine (which seems effective for other areas), it would be highly advisable to consult a dermatologist or a doctor. They can help determine if there's an underlying internal cause and recommend appropriate treatment options, which might include prescription topical medications, oral medications, or further investigation into hormonal health.

I hope this feedback is helpful!