Detailed Mixing Procedure for Sunscreen Formula

Asked by: pockyrainy On: May 26, 2025 Product Type: Cosmetics

Question

Could you please provide a detailed mixing procedure for a sunscreen formula using the following ingredients?

  • Zinc Oxide 200nm EasyDisperse 6%
  • AquaForce™ EHT: Water, Acrylates/C12-22 Alkyl Methacrylate Copolymer, Ethylhexyl Triazone (20%), Glycerin, Phenoxyethanol, Chlorophenesin, Sodium Benzoate 15%
  • EHT 1%
  • DHHB 4%
  • Bisoctrizole (MBBT, e.q. Tinosorb M) 7%
  • AquaForce™ BEMT : Water, Bis-Ethylhexyloxyphenol Methoxyphenyl Triazine (20%), Acrylates/C12-22 Alkyl Methacrylate Copolymer, Glycerin, Phenoxyethanol, Chlorophenesin, Sodium Benzoate 15%
  • Extreme-B3 4%
  • สารสกัด ผักเบี้ยใหญ่ Portulaca Extract (Purified Colorless Liquid) 0.5%
  • สารสกัด ใบบัวบก 1%
  • สารสกัดชะเอมเทศLicorice Extract (Licochalcone A 1%, Water-Soluble) 1%
  • Panthenol 2%
  • Disodium EDTA 0.1%
  • SelectSorb 2%
  • Magnesium Sulfate 1.5%
  • Hydrogenated Polyisobutene (4cs, e.q. MC30) 3%
  • LipidSoft™ SPF 12%
  • Oil-Fix™ W (Oil/Silicone, Silica Dimethyl Silylate) 2%
  • Xantan gum 0.15%
  • Hemisqualane 6%
  • UV35 (Polyurethane-35) 2%
  • Warp Cream Maker™ XL 5%
  • Biosaccharide Gum-2 1%
  • Protec™ OX (Pentaerythrityl tetra-di-t-butyl hydroxyhydrocinnamate) 0.1%
  • Mild Preserved Eco™ - Propanediol 90%, Ethylhexylglycerin 10% 2%
  • น้ำกลั่น 6.65%

Answer

Here are the detailed mixing instructions for your sunscreen formulation:

This formula appears to be a water-in-oil or water-in-silicone emulsion, which requires careful mixing to ensure stability. Please follow these steps:

Ingredients:

  • Zinc Oxide 200nm EasyDisperse (6%)
  • AquaForce™ EHT (15%)
  • EHT (1%)
  • DHHB (4%)
  • Bisoctrizole (MBBT, e.q. Tinosorb M) (7%)
  • AquaForce™ BEMT (15%)
  • Extreme-B3 (4%)
  • Portulaca Extract (Purified Colorless Liquid) (0.5%)
  • สารสกัด ใบบัวบก (Centella Asiatica Extract) (1%)
  • สารสกัดชะเอมเทศLicorice Extract (Licochalcone A 1%, Water-Soluble) (1%)
  • Panthenol (2%)
  • Disodium EDTA (0.1%)
  • SelectSorb (2%)
  • Magnesium Sulfate (1.5%)
  • Hydrogenated Polyisobutene (4cs, e.q. MC30) (3%)
  • LipidSoft™ SPF (12%)
  • Oil-Fix™ W (Oil/Silicone, Silica Dimethyl Silylate) (2%)
  • Xantan gum (0.15%)
  • Hemisqualane (6%)
  • UV35 (Polyurethane-35) (2%)
  • Warp Cream Maker™ XL (5%)
  • Biosaccharide Gum-2 (1%)
  • Protec™ OX (Pentaerythrityl tetra-di-t-butyl hydroxyhydrocinnamate) (0.1%)
  • Mild Preserved Eco™ - Propanediol 90%, Ethylhexylglycerin 10% (2%)
  • Purified Water (6.65%)

Mixing Procedure:

Phase A (Oil/Silicone Phase - Heat to 75°C):
Combine the following ingredients in a beaker:

  • Warp Cream Maker™ XL (5%)
  • Hydrogenated Polyisobutene (4cs) (3%)
  • LipidSoft™ SPF (12%)
  • Oil-Fix™ W (2%)
  • Hemisqualane (6%)
  • DHHB (4%)
  • Protec™ OX (0.1%)

Heat this phase to 75°C with stirring until DHHB and Protec™ OX are completely dissolved. Once dissolved, disperse Zinc Oxide 200nm EasyDisperse (6%) into this heated phase using a high-speed mixer or homogenizer until it is fully and evenly dispersed. Maintain the temperature at 75°C.

Phase B (Water Phase - Prepare Separately):
In a separate beaker, combine:

  • Purified Water (6.65%)
  • Disodium EDTA (0.1%)

Stir until the Disodium EDTA is dissolved. Then add:

  • Magnesium Sulfate (1.5%)

Stir until dissolved. Then disperse:

  • Xantan gum (0.15%)

Stir or mix until the Xanthan gum is fully hydrated and the water phase is thickened. Add the remaining Phase B ingredients:

  • UV35 (2%)
  • AquaForce™ EHT (15%)
  • Bisoctrizole (MBBT, e.q. Tinosorb M) (7%)
  • AquaForce™ BEMT (15%)
  • Extreme-B3 (4%)
  • Panthenol (2%)
  • Biosaccharide Gum-2 (1%)

Stir until all water-soluble ingredients are dissolved and water-dispersible ingredients are evenly dispersed. This phase can be prepared at room temperature or gently warmed, but avoid prolonged heating above 40°C to protect the AquaForce™ ingredients. If warming, do not exceed 40°C for more than 15 minutes.

Emulsification:
While homogenizing Phase A at high speed, slowly add Phase B to Phase A in a thin stream. Continue high-speed homogenization for 5-10 minutes to ensure a stable water-in-oil/silicone emulsion is formed.

Cool Down:
Switch to slower paddle stirring and allow the emulsion to cool down to below 40°C.

Phase C (Cool Down Phase - Add below 40°C):
Once the emulsion is below 40°C, add the following ingredients:

  • Portulaca Extract (Purified Colorless Liquid) (0.5%)
  • สารสกัด ใบบัวบก (Centella Asiatica Extract) (1%)
  • สารสกัดชะเอมเทศLicorice Extract (Licochalcone A 1%, Water-Soluble) (1%)
  • SelectSorb (2%)
  • Mild Preserved Eco™ (2%)

Mix until all ingredients in Phase C are fully incorporated and the formula is homogeneous.

Final Check:
Check the pH of the final product and adjust if necessary to be within the optimal range for the active ingredients (typically between 4.0 and 6.5).