Revised Lip Balm Formula Approach

1. Reduce Total Wax Content: Lowering the total percentage of waxes will help create a lighter feel on the lips. Aim for a total wax content between 40-50%. You can use a combination of Natural White Beeswax and Rice Bran Wax. Beeswax provides a soft texture and occlusive properties, while Rice Bran Wax helps with structure and oil binding, contributing to a smooth texture and preventing oil separation.
2. Increase Oil/Butter Phase: Compensate for the reduced wax by increasing the percentage of oils and butters. NaturalProfile™ Sweet Almond Oil is a good emollient. Incorporating a butter like Shea Butter (Refined, Deodorised) or Cocoa Butter Replacer (Quick-Melt) (or a combination) will significantly improve the feel, making it less heavy and more comfortable. Butters also offer excellent emollience and contribute to the long-lasting moisture feel by forming a protective layer. Aim for 40-50% of the oil/butter phase.
3. Adjust Colorant Percentage and Dispersion: Reduce the amount of So Red Mica. A concentration of 1-5% is typically sufficient for a tinted balm, depending on the desired color intensity. Thoroughly dispersing the mica in the oil phase before adding waxes is crucial to prevent grittiness and white residue.
4. Address Humectant Goal: Since glycerin is difficult to incorporate effectively into an anhydrous balm, focus on the emollient and occlusive properties of the waxes, oils, and butters. Ingredients like Shea Butter and Sweet Almond Oil provide significant moisturizing benefits by reducing transepidermal water loss and improving skin barrier function. While not traditional humectants, they contribute to the feeling of hydrated lips in a balm format. If a true humectant effect is essential, you might need to explore different product types or specialized ingredients.
5. Include Flavor: Add Fresh Melon flavor at a low percentage (e.g., 0.1-0.5%) to the oil phase.

Sample Revised Formula Structure (Percentages are approximate and require testing)

• Natural White Beeswax: 20-30%
• Rice Bran Wax: 10-20%
• NaturalProfile™ Sweet Almond Oil: 20-30%
• Shea Butter (Refined, Deodorised) or Cocoa Butter Replacer (Quick-Melt): 20-30%
• So Red Mica: 1-5%
• Fresh Melon (Flavor): 0.1-0.5%
• (Optional: Vitamin E, antioxidants)

Total: 100%

Manufacturing Process (General Guide):

1. Combine waxes (Beeswax, Rice Bran Wax) and the oil/butter phase (Sweet Almond Oil, Shea Butter/Cocoa Butter Replacer) in a heat-resistant container.
2. Heat gently (around 70-80°C) until all waxes and butters are completely melted and the mixture is clear.
3. In a separate small container, disperse the So Red Mica in a small amount of the melted oil/butter mixture, ensuring there are no clumps.
4. Once the main mixture is melted and clear, remove from heat.
5. Add the dispersed mica mixture to the main mixture and stir thoroughly to ensure even color distribution.
6. Add the Fresh Melon flavor and any other heat-sensitive additives (like Vitamin E) below 40°C.
7. Pour the mixture carefully into lip balm tubes or containers before it starts to solidify.
8. Allow to cool completely at room temperature or in a refrigerator until fully set.

Alternative Approaches

If you are looking for a different texture or a stronger staining effect, you could explore using pre-made bases like Wet Stain Glossy Lipstick (Tint Stick, Red) or Gloss Stain Gel Lip (Red). These bases are formulated to provide specific textures and color properties, and you would typically just need to add your desired flavor.

By adjusting the wax and oil/butter ratios and carefully incorporating the mica, you can create a tinted lip balm that is less heavy, provides long-lasting moisture through occlusion and emollients, and offers buildable color without significant white residue.