Formulation Guide: Dewy, Highlighting Sunscreen Cream for Sensitive Skin

Creating a facial cream that provides a dewy, highlighting finish, offers sun protection, and is suitable for sensitive skin is a complex task requiring specific expertise and thorough testing. I cannot provide a complete, tested formula with exact percentages directly, as this requires careful balancing of ingredients and stability testing.

However, based on your requirements and the available products, I can suggest suitable ingredients and concepts to guide you in developing your formulation.

Key Ingredients to Consider

1. Physical Sunscreen Filters:
   For sensitive skin, physical sunscreens like Zinc Oxide and Titanium Dioxide are often recommended because they sit on the skin's surface to reflect and scatter UV rays, rather than being absorbed. To minimize the white cast commonly associated with these filters, consider using nano-sized particles or specially coated versions.

   • Titanium Dioxide Transparent (15nm, Water-Dispersion) and Titanium Dioxide Transparent (10nm, C12-15 Alkyl Benzoate Base): Nano-sized Titanium Dioxide that helps reduce whitening, suitable for formulations requiring transparency.
   • Zinc Oxide (40nm, Triethoxycaprylylsilane Coated) and Zinc Oxide (20nm, Triethoxycaprylylsilane Coated): Coated nano Zinc Oxide that disperses well in oil or silicone and minimizes whiteness on the skin.
   • Zinc Oxide Transparent Dispersion (Isopropyl Palmitate Base): A ready-to-use liquid Zinc Oxide dispersion in an oil base, offering a lightweight feel and no whitening effect.
   • Titanium Zinc NanoLiquid™ DEC (non-white, low viscosity): A blend of physical filters (Titanium Dioxide and Zinc Oxide) in a Diethylhexyl Carbonate base, providing a lightweight, non-whitening liquid with full-spectrum UVA/UVB protection.
   • Titanium Dioxide 30nm SilkTouch™ (Polymethylsilsesquioxane Treated): Titanium Dioxide treated for a soft feel, suitable for incorporating into silicone or oil bases.

   Note: Combining Zinc Oxide and Titanium Dioxide provides broader spectrum protection against both UVA and UVB rays. Achieving a specific SPF/PA claim requires professional laboratory testing of the final formulation.

2. Dewy/Glossy Effect Enhancers and Moisturizers:
   To achieve a dewy, highlighting finish, incorporate ingredients that create a luminous film on the skin and provide hydration.

   • LipidSoft™ Shine and Silicone Shine Ultra170™ (Ultra Shine Silicone, Medium Viscosity): Esters or silicones known for providing high gloss, ideal for enhancing skin radiance.
   • Squalane Oil Gel (Thixotropic): Squalane oil in a gel form, offering moisturization and a smooth, dewy film on the skin.
   • Hyaluronic Acid Gel Base: A pre-made gel base containing Hyaluronic Acid, which hydrates the skin and contributes to a plump, dewy appearance.

3. Soothing Agents for Sensitive Skin:
   To minimize the risk of irritation, include ingredients known for their calming properties.

   • Natural Bisabolol (Brazil Chamomile) and Bisabolol (Alpha Bisabolol, Bisabolol RAC): Extracts/synthesized compounds from chamomile with anti-inflammatory and soothing benefits.
   • Calendula Extract (Water Soluble): An extract with anti-inflammatory, wound-healing, and skin-strengthening properties.
   • Portulaca Extract (Purified Colorless Liquid): An extract known for reducing skin irritation.
   • Witch Hazel (Alcohol Free, Paraben Free) Plus Allantoin: Helps tighten pores, while Allantoin soothes irritation and moisturizes.
   • Chamomile Water (Anthemis Nobilis): Chamomile distillate that helps soothe and comfort the skin.

4. Cream Base / Emulsifier:
   Choosing a cream base or emulsifier compatible with sensitive skin and other ingredients is crucial.

   • Skin Barrier Cream Base (Emulsifier Free): A cream base designed to support the skin barrier, suitable for sensitive skin and free from potentially irritating emulsifiers.
   • Hyaluronic Acid Gel Base: Can serve as a primary base for lightweight, hydrating gel formulations.
   • Easy Cream Maker™, Soft Cream Maker™, Silk Cream Maker™, CreamMaker EG™ (e.q. Simulgel EG), Sucrose Cream Maker™ (e.q. Emulgade Sucro Plus): Emulsifiers/thickeners with different properties and usage methods. Select one based on the desired texture, oil content, and compatibility with other ingredients (e.g., O/W or W/O emulsion).

Additional Recommendations

• Patch Testing: Before applying to the face, always perform a patch test on a small, inconspicuous area of sensitive skin (like the inner forearm) to check for any allergic reactions or irritation.
• Stability: Formulations containing various ingredients, especially physical sunscreens, may require dispersing agents or emulsion stabilizers to prevent separation.
• Proportions: The percentage of each ingredient significantly impacts the formula's efficacy (including SPF), texture, and stability. Adjusting proportions requires careful consideration and testing.

Developing cosmetic formulations requires knowledge and experience. Starting with a pre-made base designed for sensitive skin, such as the Skin Barrier Cream Base or Hyaluronic Acid Gel Base, and gradually incorporating small amounts of sunscreen filters, shine enhancers, and soothing agents might be a simpler and safer approach.

If you wish to purchase ingredients, you can select from the product names mentioned above.