Difference between INCI Names: DNA vs. Sodium DNA (Salmon DNA/PDRN)
Question
What is the difference between the INCI name `DNA` (referring to Salmon DNA/PDRN) and the INCI name `Sodium DNA`?
Specifically, how do these two forms differ in terms of chemical structure, solubility, and stability when used in cosmetic formulations?
Answer
The difference between the INCI names DNA and Sodium DNA when referring to Salmon DNA (PDRN) is primarily a matter of chemical structure and stability, which affects how the ingredient is formulated:
Sodium DNA (The Standard Form):
- Chemical Nature: This is the sodium salt of Deoxyribonucleic Acid (DNA).
- Function in Formulation: Converting DNA to its sodium salt makes the molecule highly water-soluble and stable in cosmetic formulations. This is the most common and effective form of DNA used in skincare.
- PDRN Connection: The active component of "Salmon DNA" is PDRN (Polydeoxyribonucleotide), which is a mixture of DNA fragments. PDRN is typically registered under the INCI name Sodium DNA or Polydeoxyribonucleotide because the sodium salt form is used for stability and solubility.
DNA (The Acid Form):
- Chemical Nature: This refers to the free Deoxyribonucleic Acid molecule.
- Function in Formulation: The free acid form is generally less stable and less soluble in water compared to its sodium salt. While it is chemically the core molecule, it is rarely used as a standalone INCI name for a stable, commercial ingredient in water-based products.
In summary: While both names refer to the same core molecule, Sodium DNA is the stable, water-soluble, and preferred form for cosmetic use. When purchasing "Salmon DNA" (PDRN) products, you are almost certainly getting the active ingredient in the stable Sodium DNA salt form.