Differences between Polysorbate 20 & 80 and Mineral Oil alternatives

Asked by: nbinnima On: June 13, 2014 Product Type: Cosmetics

Question

What are the differences between Polysorbate 20 and Polysorbate 80?

Also, how can I replace Mineral Oil (Paraffinum Liquidum) in a formula where it and Cetearyl Ethylhexanoate are main ingredients? The staff suggested using LipidSoft or LipidSoft CC.

Answer

Differences Between Polysorbate 20 and Polysorbate 80

Polysorbate 20 and Polysorbate 80 are both types of polysorbates used as emulsifiers and solubilizers in cosmetic formulations, but they have key differences:

  • Solubility: Polysorbate 80 is soluble in oil and water, but not in Glycerin. Polysorbate 20 is soluble in water and Glycerin, but only incompletely soluble (may cause turbidity) in oil.
  • HLB Value: Polysorbate 80 has a higher HLB (Hydrophilic-Lipophilic Balance) value than Polysorbate 20. A higher HLB value generally indicates a more water-soluble emulsifier, suitable for oil-in-water emulsions or solubilizing oils in water.
  • Weight/Thickness: Polysorbate 80 is described as having a higher weight/thickness compared to Polysorbate 20.

Essentially, Polysorbate 20 is more suitable for solubilizing oils in water or emulsifying oil-in-water systems where the oil phase is relatively small, while Polysorbate 80 is more versatile, capable of handling larger oil phases and soluble in both oil and water.

Alternatives for Mineral Oil

Regarding replacing Mineral Oil (Paraffinum Liquidum) in a formula where it and Cetearyl Ethylhexanoate are main ingredients, the staff's suggestion is appropriate.

  • You can replace Mineral Oil with LipidSoft or LipidSoft CC.
  • LipidSoft CC is the trade name for Cetearyl Ethylhexanoate, which is already a main ingredient in your formula.
  • Therefore, a straightforward approach is to remove Mineral Oil and increase the proportion of Cetearyl Ethylhexanoate (LipidSoft CC) in your formula. This ingredient provides emollient properties similar to mineral oil but is often preferred for its feel and performance.
  • Alternatively, you could explore other variants within the LipidSoft range (such as LipidSoft Dry, LipidSoft Lite, etc.) depending on the desired skin feel and properties of the final product. These offer various textures and absorption rates that can serve as excellent alternatives to Mineral Oil.