Differences in Licorice Extract Properties: Licochalcone A vs. Glabridin for Whitening and Anti-inflammation
Question
Could you please clarify the properties of Licorice Extract, specifically regarding Licochalcone A (e.g., 1.5%)? I understand Licochalcone A is often mentioned, but does it truly offer skin whitening benefits, or are its primary functions related to anti-irritation and oil control? If whitening is the goal, which specific compound in Licorice Extract (like Glabridin or Glycyrrhizic acid) is responsible, and what are the recommended usage rates for these different types of extracts and their respective product forms (e.g., water-soluble, oil-soluble)?
Answer
Licorice Extract and Skin Benefits
Regarding your question about Licorice Extract (Licochalcone A 1.5%) having whitening properties, based on the information available, Licochalcone A is primarily known for its anti-inflammatory, anti-irritant, and oil-controlling benefits, rather than skin whitening.
Licochalcone A is effective in reducing skin inflammation, redness from acne, irritation, and controlling excess oiliness on the face and scalp. Products containing Licochalcone A, such as Licorice Extract (Licochalcone A 1%, Water-Soluble) and Hi-LiconeA™ Licorice Extract (Licochalcone A 20%), are typically used for these purposes. The recommended usage rate for Licorice Extract (Licochalcone A 1%, Water-Soluble) is 0.5-3%, while for Hi-LiconeA™ Licorice Extract (Licochalcone A 20%), it is 0.1-0.3%.
For skin whitening or brightening effects from Licorice Extract, the key active compound is Glabridin or Glycyrrhizic acid.
- Glabridin works by inhibiting the enzyme tyrosinase, which is involved in melanin production. Products like Pure-Glabridin™ Licorice Extract (Glabridin 90%), Hi-Glabridin™ Licorice Extract (Glabridin 40%), and Licorice Extract (Glabridin 4.5%, Water-Soluble) contain this compound. The recommended usage rate for Pure-Glabridin™ Licorice Extract (Glabridin 90%) and Hi-Glabridin™ Licorice Extract (Glabridin 40%) is 0.02-0.1%, while for Licorice Extract (Glabridin 4.5%, Water-Soluble), it is 1-2%.
- Glycyrrhizic acid also shows skin brightening and anti-pigmentation properties by inhibiting tyrosinase. Glycyrrhizic acid (Oil Soluble Licorice Extract) is an example product containing this compound, with a recommended usage rate of 0.1-1.0%.
Therefore, if your goal is skin whitening, you should look for Licorice Extract products standardized for Glabridin or Glycyrrhizic acid, not Licochalcone A.
