Dissolution and Stability of Sugarcane Extract (Policosanol) in Cosmetic Formulations
Question
I am working with Sugarcane Extract (98% Policosanol, 80% Octacosanol) and encountered an issue where it did not dissolve in Propylene Glycol (PG) as per the initial instructions.
Could you please provide detailed guidance on the optimal dissolution methods and suitable solvents for this extract, ensuring good solubility in cosmetic formulations? Specifically, I need to know:
- What exact temperature is required for dissolution?
- Which solvents are recommended (e.g., ethanol, specific oils, or types of glycols such as
Ethoxydiglycol,Butylene Glycol,Propylene Glycol)? - If a solubilizer is needed, what type should be used?
- What are the approximate ratios for the extract to the solvent?
- A step-by-step mixing procedure for both:
- Oil-Free Formulations: Including details on heating the extract/glycol mixture and the water phase, and the role of heat-activated cream makers (e.g.,
Butter Cream Maker,Soft Cream Maker,Milk Lotion Maker). - Oil-Based Formulations: Including details on dissolving in the oil phase and combining with the water phase.
- Oil-Free Formulations: Including details on heating the extract/glycol mixture and the water phase, and the role of heat-activated cream makers (e.g.,
- What are the pH and temperature limitations for using
Sugarcane Extract (98% Policosanol, 80% Octacosanol)in cosmetic formulations?
Answer
Sugarcane Extract (98% Policosanol, 80% Octacosanol) is well-soluble in oils and certain glycols such as Ethoxydiglycol, Butylene Glycol, and Propylene Glycol, as indicated in the product information. However, dissolution requires heat and correct mixing methods to prevent agglomeration or sedimentation.
How to Dissolve Sugarcane Extract (98% Policosanol, 80% Octacosanol):
1. For Oil-Free Formulations:
- Solvents: We recommend using Ethoxydiglycol, Butylene Glycol, or Propylene Glycol.
- Ratio: Use Glycol at twice the rate of Sugarcane Extract (e.g., if using 3% Sugarcane Extract, use 6% Glycol).
- Temperature: Heat the Sugarcane Extract and Glycol mixture to 85 degrees Celsius.
- Mixing Steps:
- Mix Sugarcane Extract with the chosen Glycol at a 1:2 ratio.
- Heat this mixture to 85 degrees Celsius.
- Separately heat the water phase of your formulation to the same temperature (85 degrees Celsius).
- Combine the heated Sugarcane Extract/Glycol mixture with the heated water phase.
- Important: The formulation must include a heat-activated Cream Maker such as Butter Cream Maker, Soft Cream Maker, or Milk Lotion Maker to properly harmonize the Sugarcane Extract and Glycol within the formula and prevent agglomeration or sedimentation.
2. For Oil-Based Formulations:
- Solvent: Use the oil phase of your formulation.
- Temperature: Heat the oil phase to 85 degrees Celsius.
- Mixing Steps:
- Dissolve Sugarcane Extract in the oil phase of your formulation at 85 degrees Celsius.
- Then, combine the dissolved oil phase with the water phase according to your normal formulation procedure.
pH/Temperature Limitations:
- Sugarcane Extract can withstand heat up to 85 degrees Celsius for no more than 15 minutes.
- The product does not specify particular pH limitations, but generally, cosmetic ingredients are stable within typical cosmetic pH ranges (approximately 4.5-7.0). Extreme pH conditions should be avoided.
