Dissolving Ingredients in Alcohol/Glycol for Water-Based Formula

Asked by: akk37 On: January 23, 2022 Product Type: Cosmetics

Question

How to dissolve multiple active ingredients (Melatonin, Phytosphingosine, Ferulic Acid, Glycyrrhetinic Acid, WhiteCumin™) and fragrance in Ethyl Alcohol or other suitable solvents for a water-based formula without oil or emulsifiers, and what are the recommended solvent ratios and dissolution steps?

Answer

Dissolving Ingredients in Alcohol for a Water-Based Formula

You are planning to create a water-based formula without oil or emulsifiers by first dissolving several active ingredients and fragrance in Ethyl Alcohol. Here is information regarding the solubility of the ingredients you listed based on their product descriptions:

  • Pure-Melatonin (3%): The description states it is soluble in some oils and glycols (like Ethoxydiglycol, 1,3-Propanediol), but does not explicitly mention solubility in ethanol.
  • Phytosphingosine (0.5%): This ingredient is soluble in organic solvents. The description suggests blending it in oil or glycol before incorporating it into the main formula. While ethanol is an organic solvent, its solubility in pure ethanol might be limited, and the suggested method involves oil/glycol.
  • Pure-Ferulic Acid (1%): The description explicitly states it is soluble in ethanol or Ethoxydiglycol.
  • Glycyrrhetinic Acid (2%): The description explicitly states it can be dissolved in Ethanol, Propylene Glycol, Ethoxydiglycol, Butylene Glycol, or Glycerin, and requires heat (60-70°C) to help dissolution.
  • WhiteCumin™ (0.2%): The description states it can be dissolved in Glycol, Propanediol, and oil, but does not explicitly mention solubility in ethanol.
  • Fragrance (0.5%): Fragrance oils are generally soluble in Ethyl Alcohol.

Based on the product descriptions, not all of your listed ingredients are explicitly stated to be soluble in pure Ethyl Alcohol (specifically Melatonin, Phytosphingosine, and WhiteCumin™). While you may have seen information suggesting Ethyl Alcohol can be used, the detailed descriptions indicate that glycols (like Ethoxydiglycol, Propylene Glycol, or 1,3-Propanediol) are suitable solvents for several of these ingredients.

To ensure all ingredients dissolve properly in a system without oil or emulsifiers before adding to the water phase, it is recommended to use a solvent blend of Ethyl Alcohol and a suitable Glycol (such as Propylene Glycol or Ethoxydiglycol). This blend can help dissolve a wider range of the ingredients you've selected.

Dissolution Process:

  1. Combine the solid ingredients (Pure-Melatonin, Phytosphingosine, Pure-Ferulic Acid, Glycyrrhetinic Acid, WhiteCumin™) in a beaker.
  2. Add the chosen solvent blend of Ethyl Alcohol and Glycol. The amount of solvent blend needed will depend on the total percentage of your active ingredients (7.2%). You will need enough solvent to fully dissolve all the solids. A starting point could be using a total solvent blend amount that is 1.5 to 2 times the total weight of the solid actives, or more if necessary, until a clear solution is achieved.
  3. Gently heat the mixture to 60-70°C while stirring to help dissolve the Glycyrrhetinic Acid and other ingredients. Stir until all solids are completely dissolved and you have a clear solution.
  4. Once the solution is clear and has cooled slightly, add the Fragrance (0.5%) and stir to combine.
  5. This concentrated solvent solution containing your dissolved ingredients can then be slowly added to your water phase while stirring.

Keep in mind that achieving a perfectly clear and stable solution when adding this solvent blend to the water phase without emulsifiers can sometimes be challenging, depending on the total concentration of the dissolved ingredients and the specific glycol used. Testing with small batches is highly recommended to find the optimal ratio of Ethyl Alcohol to Glycol and the total amount of the solvent blend needed for your specific formulation.