DIY Anti-Aging Serum Formulation with Peptides, DMAE, and pH Adjustment
Question
I'm making a DIY serum using Aloe Vera Gel base. My current formula for anti-aging (lifting, wrinkle reduction) and oil control is:
- DMAE (SkinTight MD™)
- Matrixyl 3000
- Argireline (Acetyl Hexapeptide-8)
- MSM
- L-Carnitine
- Vitamin B3 (Safe-B3™)
- Azelaic Acid
This formula works well for me, even with late nights. However, I need to adjust the pH slightly by adding a base because DMAE is quite acidic. I'm considering adding Panthenol (Vitamin B5) to this formula. I have slightly oily skin and am concerned about the potential for stickiness if I add Panthenol. Could you provide feedback on this formulation, especially regarding the addition of Panthenol and managing the pH with these ingredients?
Answer
Skincare Formulation Feedback for Lifting, Wrinkles, and Brightening
Thank you for sharing your planned skincare formulation! It's a well-thought-out combination targeting brightening, wrinkle reduction, and lifting for your skin type at age 47.
Your chosen ingredients offer several benefits:
- GlucoBright™ (Acetyl Glucosamine) and Alpha Arbutin: These are excellent choices for targeting skin brightening and reducing dark spots, helping to achieve a more even and radiant complexion.
- Safe-B3™ (Vitamin B3, Niacinamide): Vitamin B3 is a versatile ingredient that helps improve skin barrier function, reduce redness and hyperpigmentation, and offers anti-aging benefits by stimulating collagen and ceramide production. It can also help control oiliness.
- Acetyl Hexapeptide-8 (eq Argireline) and Pal-GHK, Pal-GQPR (eq Matrixyl 3000): These peptides are effective for addressing wrinkles. Argireline works by reducing muscle tension that contributes to expression lines, while Matrixyl™ 3000 stimulates collagen synthesis to improve skin firmness and reduce wrinkle depth.
- Pepha®-Tight: As discussed, Pepha®-Tight provides a noticeable, but temporary, tightening effect on the skin's surface. It can be useful for an immediate visual lift but does not provide long-term structural improvement.
To enhance the long-term lifting and firming effect, especially for areas like the jawline and cheeks, incorporating DMAE (SkinTight MD™) Liquid is highly recommended, as suggested by the staff. DMAE works by stimulating phosphatidylcholine synthesis, an important component of cell membranes, which helps improve skin firmness and reduce sagging over time. Results are typically seen with consistent use.
You also asked about using Panthenol (Vitamin B5) with DMAE. According to product information, Panthenol can work synergistically with DMAE to potentially increase its skin-tightening effects. Panthenol also offers excellent moisturizing, wound healing, and anti-inflammatory benefits. However, as noted, using higher concentrations of Vitamin B5 might result in a slightly sticky feeling on the skin, which is something to consider based on your texture preference.
Your base of Aloe Vera Gel is suitable for incorporating these water-soluble active ingredients.
Recommendations:
- Consider adding DMAE (SkinTight MD™) Liquid: To achieve more significant and lasting lifting results, include DMAE in your formula. Start with a lower recommended usage rate to assess skin tolerance, as it can cause irritation in some individuals, especially at higher concentrations.
- Evaluate Pepha®-Tight: If you are satisfied with a temporary tightening effect, you can keep Pepha®-Tight. However, for long-term lifting, DMAE is a more impactful addition.
- Panthenol (Vitamin B5): You can include Panthenol for its moisturizing and synergistic effects with DMAE, but be mindful of the potential for stickiness depending on the concentration.
- Formulation Considerations: When adding DMAE, remember that it is acidic and may require pH adjustment of your final formula to be within the optimal range for all ingredients (typically pH 3.5-6.5 for Argireline and Alpha Arbutin, 3-8 for Vitamin B3, and 3.5-7 for Panthenol). Always check the recommended usage rates for each specific product you are using.
Overall, your planned formula is a strong base for addressing multiple signs of aging. Adding DMAE would be a valuable enhancement for the lifting concern.
Related Products Mentioned
Acetyl Hexapeptide-8 (eq Argireline)
Pal-GHK, Pal-GQPR (eq Matrixyl 3000)
Alpha Arbutin (Switzerland)
Safe-B3™ (Vitamin B3, Niacinamide)
GlucoBright™ (Acetyl Glucosamine)
Aloe Vera Gel (Heavy)