DIY Body Lotion: pH, Emulsifier, Texture, and BHA Interaction

Asked by: saensaeb1989 On: January 31, 2015 Product Type: Cosmetics

Question

I am making my first DIY body lotion using the following ingredients:

  • N-Acetyl Glucosamine (NAG)
  • Vitamin B3 (Niacinamide)
  • Lemon Peel Bioferment
  • Rich Cream Maker (Emulsifier)
  • Rosehip Oil
  • Other base ingredients

I have a few questions regarding the formulation:

  1. pH Compatibility: NAG and B3 are said to work best around pH 5-6. Lemon Peel Bioferment often requires a low pH (around 3). Can these three ingredients be used together in the same formula? What is the optimal pH range for this combination?
  2. Rich Cream Maker Usage: Does Rich Cream Maker require heat to emulsify? I want to avoid heating the oil phase containing Rosehip oil to preserve its properties.
  3. Interaction with BHA: Can this lotion be used after applying a BHA product? If so, should I wait a certain amount of time between applying the BHA and the lotion?
  4. Texture Improvement: The Rich Cream Maker seems to give a thick texture. How can I improve the spreadability and make the lotion feel less thick or sticky, similar to commercial lotions? I received suggestions like adding Cyclomethicone, Powder Cream, or MatteSilica. What percentages would be suitable for these texture modifiers?

Answer

Hi there! It's great you're diving into DIY skincare with your first body lotion. It looks like you've put together a thoughtful formula with some excellent ingredients focused on skin feel and radiance.

Let's address your questions and the helpful replies you've received:

  1. pH Compatibility (NAG, B3, Lemon Peel Bioferment): You're right that N-Acetyl Glucosamine and Vitamin B3 (Niacinamide) are often cited as working well around pH 5-6. Regarding the Lemon Peel Bioferment, as one of the replies mentioned, the requirement might not be a strict pH 3 for function, but rather that the final product pH should be within a broader range (like 3.5-7), with an ideal target for skin compatibility and ingredient stability often being around pH 4-6. This range should be suitable for all three ingredients (NAG, B3, and Lemon Peel Bioferment) and is also good for your skin. So, based on this, you likely don't need to choose between them due to pH conflicts, as long as you adjust the final product pH to the 4-6 range.
  2. Rich Cream Maker and Heat: Good news! As confirmed in the replies, Rich Cream Maker does not require heat for emulsification. You can indeed mix it into your oil phase at room temperature, then add your water phase and mix to form the emulsion. This helps preserve the beneficial properties of your sensitive oils like Rosehip.
  3. BHA Interaction: BHA is acidic, and applying an acidic product right before a lotion containing pH-sensitive actives could potentially cause some issues or reduce efficacy. However, the suggestion to wait 20-30 minutes after applying BHA before applying your lotion is a sound one. Skin pH naturally rebalances relatively quickly, so waiting allows your skin's surface pH to return closer to its normal level, minimizing potential interference with the actives in your lotion.

Additional Recommendations:

Based on your goals and the feedback you received, here are a couple more points to consider:

  • Improving Spreadability: As suggested in one of the replies, Rich Cream Maker can sometimes result in a thicker, less spreadable texture compared to commercial lotions that use different emulsifiers or additives. To improve the slip and feel, you might consider adding an ingredient like Cyclomethicone (around 5-10%) or a powder-based texturizer (like Powder Cream or MatteSilica at 2-3%) to your oil phase. This isn't strictly necessary for function, but it can significantly improve the user experience, making the lotion more pleasant to apply and encouraging consistent use.
  • Adding Vitamin E: Adding Vitamin E (Tocopherol) at a low percentage (e.g., 0.5-2%) is a great idea. It acts as an antioxidant, helping to protect your precious oils (especially Rosehip) from oxidation, which can extend the shelf life of your lotion. It also offers some antioxidant benefits for the skin.
  • Final pH Adjustment: After making the lotion, it's crucial to check and adjust the final pH to ensure it's in the optimal range (pH 4-6) for ingredient stability and skin health. You can use a pH meter or pH strips and adjust with a few drops of a dilute acid (like citric acid solution) or base (like sodium bicarbonate solution) if needed.

Your formula looks like a fantastic start for a nourishing and skin-clarifying body lotion. Focusing on the feel and adjusting the pH will help ensure it's effective and enjoyable to use!

Tags

Emulsification Lotion Spreadability Texture pH Compatibility