DIY Serum Formula for Whitening and Moisturizing (Inspired by Amway)

Asked by: asun1909 On: May 21, 2016 Product Type: Cosmetics

Question

I would like a DIY serum formula similar to Amway Artistry Skin Refinishing, focusing on whitening for very dark skin and providing moisture for dry skin.

I have some specific questions regarding the formulation:

  • Can nourishing oils like Grapeseed or Rosehip oil be added to the formula?
  • Instead of Pro Polymer, can Hyaluronic Acid or Xanthan Gum be used to thicken the serum?
  • Is a preservative necessary for this type of serum?
  • Why is raw Hyaluronic Acid powder instructed to be stored between 15-25°C and not refrigerated?
  • Can other active ingredients like Azelaic Acid (Liquid Azelaic™) and Tranexamic Acid (Trans-White™) be added to the formula?

Answer

Based on your request for a DIY serum similar to Amway Artistry Skin Refinishing, focusing on whitening and moisturizing, and incorporating the ingredients discussed, here is a suggested formula based on the recommendations from the forum thread.

The key active ingredients identified for brightening are Niacinamide (Vitamin B3) and N-Acetyl Glucosamine (NAG). The Amway product also contains other beneficial ingredients like Hydrolyzed Oat Protein, Green Tea Extract, and Vitamin E, along with silicones and other ingredients for texture and feel.

For a DIY serum focusing on whitening with a pleasant texture, the staff recommended the following gel-cream formula:

  • Vitamin B3 (Niacinamide): 4% (Brightening, improves skin barrier)
  • N-Acetyl Glucosamine (NAG): 4% (Brightening, moisturizing, works well with B3)
  • Pro Polymer: 1% (Thickener, helps create gel-cream texture)
  • PE-1 Aqua: 2% (Texture enhancer, penetration enhancer, contains Glycerin for moisture)
  • Phenoxyethanol SA: 1% (Preservative)
  • Water (Distilled or Deionized): Balance to 100%

How to make this formula:

  1. Weigh the water into a beaker.
  2. Add Vitamin B3 and N-Acetyl Glucosamine to the water and stir until fully dissolved.
  3. Slowly add Pro Polymer while stirring to disperse it.
  4. Add PE-1 Aqua and stir until the gel-cream texture forms.
  5. Add Phenoxyethanol SA and stir to combine.
  6. Check the pH and adjust if necessary (typically around pH 5-6 for B3 and NAG).
  7. Pour into a clean container.

Regarding your other questions:

  • Adding Oils (Grapeseed, Rosehip): The recommended formula is a water-based gel-cream. Adding oils requires an emulsifier to create a stable emulsion (like a lotion or cream), which is a different type of formulation. You cannot simply add oils to this gel formula. Adding nourishing oils can provide emollient benefits for dry skin, but it would require a different formula structure.
  • Thickening with Hyaluronic Acid or Xanthan Gum: The staff formula already uses Pro Polymer and PE-1 Aqua for thickening. If you were making a simpler water-based serum, you could use Hyaluronic Acid (e.g., 0.05-0.1%) or Xanthan Gum (e.g., 0.2-1%) by hydrating them in the water phase before adding other ingredients.
  • Preservative: Yes, a preservative is essential for any water-based product to prevent microbial growth. The recommended formula includes Phenoxyethanol SA at 1%.
  • Storage of raw Hyaluronic Acid: The instruction to store raw HA powder between 15-25°C and not refrigerate is typically to prevent moisture absorption and clumping of the powder itself. The finished product containing HA can often be stored in the refrigerator to help extend its shelf life.
  • Adding other actives (Azelaic Acid, Tranexamic Acid): Adding additional active ingredients requires checking their compatibility with the existing ingredients and ensuring the final formula's pH is suitable for all actives. You would need to adjust the water percentage accordingly. Please refer to the product details for Azelaic Acid (Liquid Azelaic™) and Tranexamic Acid (Trans-White™) regarding their recommended usage rates and compatibility.

This formula provides a good balance of key brightening ingredients in a pleasant texture, similar in purpose to the Amway product you mentioned, while being suitable for DIY.