Serum Formulation Advice

Thank you for reaching out! It's great that you're making your own serum tailored to your skin concerns (combination to dry skin, dark spots, slightly enlarged pores, and desiring whitening). The ingredients you've chosen are suitable for these goals.

Here's a look at the ingredients and a suggested mixing procedure:

Ingredient Notes

• Vitamin B3 (Niacinamide) 3%: This is a good concentration for reducing dark spots and oiliness, and adding moisture. The recommended range is 1-10%, with 5% being a common effective dose. 3% is well within the beneficial range.
• Witch Hazel 3%: Witch Hazel is known for its pore-tightening properties. The typical recommended usage rate for this effect is 10-100%. While 3% might offer some soothing benefits, it may not be sufficient for noticeable pore tightening. You might consider increasing this percentage if pore tightening is a primary goal.
• Alpha Arbutin 2%: This is an excellent ingredient for skin brightening and reducing dark spots. 2% is the recommended concentration for effective whitening.
• Hyaluronic Acid 1%: Hyaluronic Acid is great for hydration. For combination to dry skin, typical usage rates are 0.1-0.5%. Using 1% will create a thicker, more gel-like serum, which can provide intense hydration but might feel slightly heavy or sticky depending on the specific type of Hyaluronic Acid. The Standard Molecule type (Product ID 79) is typically used at lower concentrations for a serum base.
• Bisabolol 1%: This ingredient helps to reduce irritation and soothe the skin. 1% is the recommended usage rate.
• Allantoin 0.5%: Allantoin is also good for reducing irritation and promoting skin healing. 0.5% is the recommended usage rate, especially for water-based formulas at room temperature due to its solubility limit.
• Phenoxyethanol 0.5%: This is a common preservative. 0.5% is within the effective range (0.5-1.0%). It's important to include a preservative in water-based formulas to prevent microbial growth.
• Distilled Water: This is your serum base.

Mixing Procedure (Room Temperature)

Mixing can largely be done at room temperature, but dissolving Hyaluronic Acid efficiently usually requires time or specific techniques. Here is a suggested order:

1. Prepare the Water Phase: Measure out the Distilled Water.
2. Dissolve Hyaluronic Acid: Add the Hyaluronic Acid powder to the distilled water. This is the step that can take time at room temperature. You can stir or shake it, then let it sit for several hours or overnight (or even refrigerate) until the powder is completely dissolved and a uniform gel is formed. Using a high-speed blender can significantly speed this up.
3. Add Water-Soluble Powders: Once the Hyaluronic Acid is fully dissolved, add Vitamin B3 and Allantoin to the gel base. Stir until completely dissolved.
4. Add Bisabolol: Add Bisabolol. Since Bisabolol is oil-soluble and this is a water-based formula, it may not fully dissolve or disperse evenly without a solubilizer. Stir well to try and incorporate it as much as possible.
5. Add Temperature-Sensitive & Preservative: Add Witch Hazel, Alpha Arbutin, and Phenoxyethanol. These ingredients are best added at temperatures below 40°C (Witch Hazel) and 30°C (Alpha Arbutin), so ensure your base is at room temperature before adding them.
6. Final Mixing: Stir the entire mixture gently until all ingredients are uniformly combined.
7. Check pH: It is highly recommended to check the final pH of your serum. Alpha Arbutin is most stable and effective in the pH range of 3.5-6.5. Vitamin B3 and Allantoin also work well in this range. Aim for a final pH between 4.0 and 6.0 for optimal stability and efficacy of your ingredients. Adjust with a small amount of pH adjuster if necessary.

This procedure allows you to incorporate all your chosen ingredients into a serum base. Remember to perform a small patch test before applying the serum to your face.