Formulation Feedback and Adjustments

Thank you for sharing your DIY skincare formulations. It's great that you are experimenting with beneficial ingredients like Niacinamide, Ceramides, Peptides, and extracts.

Based on your formulations and questions, here is some feedback and suggestions:

Essential Adjustment: Emulsifier Needed

The most critical adjustment needed for both your day and night formulas is the addition of an emulsifier. Your current formulas contain both water-soluble ingredients (like Purified Water, Sea Kelp Extract, Niacinamide, Beta Glucan, Green Tea Extract, Soy Isoflavones, Disodium EDTA, Matrixyl 3000, Argireline) and ingredients that are oil-soluble or require dispersion in oil (like Ceramide Complex and Dipalmitoyl Hydroxyproline). Water and oil phases do not mix without an emulsifier to bind them together.

Without an emulsifier, your ingredients will separate over time, leading to an unstable product where the beneficial ingredients are not evenly distributed. This will significantly impact the texture and potentially the efficacy of your serums.

To create a stable product with a pleasant texture (like a serum, lotion, or cream), you will need to select a suitable emulsifier and follow proper emulsification techniques. The type and amount of emulsifier will depend on the desired final texture.

Addressing Your Specific Questions

• Adding CoolTouch (Menthyl Lactate) 1%: Adding CoolTouch at 1% will provide a cooling sensation to the skin. It is primarily a sensory additive and will not reduce the efficacy of the other active ingredients in your formulas. CoolTouch is soluble in oil or glycol, so you would need to dissolve it in a suitable phase before incorporating it into your formula, especially if you add an emulsifier to create a stable product.

• Reducing Stickiness in the Morning Formula: The current formulation, being a water-based mix with dispersed ingredients and potentially some gelling properties from ingredients like Sea Kelp Extract and Beta Glucan, can indeed feel sticky. To reduce stickiness and achieve a lighter, smoother feel, you should formulate it as a proper emulsion (a light lotion or serum-cream) using an emulsifier. Incorporating a light emollient in the oil phase (even a small amount) along with the emulsifier will significantly improve the skin feel, making it less sticky and more elegant.

• Expected Texture and Packaging:

  • Without an Emulsifier: As they are currently formulated, both mixtures will likely be watery liquids with some components settling or separating over time. The texture might feel slightly viscous or sticky due to the extracts and polymers. Packaging would need to be something where separation is acceptable, like a dropper bottle or spray bottle, but you would need to shake well before each use.
  • With an Emulsifier (Recommended): If you reformulate with a suitable emulsifier to create a stable emulsion, the texture will be a smooth lotion or cream, depending on the amount of oil phase and thickeners used. This type of product is best packaged in a bottle with a pump or a jar to maintain stability and ease of use.

Summary of Recommendations:

1. Add an Emulsifier: This is crucial for creating stable and effective formulations. Choose an emulsifier suitable for your desired texture (serum, lotion, cream).
2. Reformulate Mixing Steps: Follow the proper procedure for creating an emulsion, which typically involves heating and mixing the water and oil phases separately before combining them with the emulsifier.
3. Adjust for Texture: For the morning formula, consider adding a light emollient along with the emulsifier to achieve a less sticky, lighter feel.
4. CoolTouch: Dissolve CoolTouch in a suitable solvent (oil or glycol) before adding it to your emulsified formula.
5. Packaging: Choose packaging appropriate for an emulsion (pump bottle or jar) once you have successfully created a stable product.

Remember to always perform small test batches when adjusting formulations.