DIY Sunscreen Formulation: Mixing, Azelaic Acid Use, and Stinging Reaction

Asked by: nubird_ja On: January 16, 2016 Product Type: Cosmetics

Question

I received a DIY sunscreen formulation recipe and have a few questions:

Water Phase:

  • Aloe Vera Extract (10:1 FullAssay™): 1-3%
  • Azelaic Acid: Azelaic Acid 10%
  • WaterLock™: 2%
  • Preservative: 1%
  • Pro Polymer: 1%
  • Water: Remaining amount

Oil Phase:

  • MatteSilica™: 5%
  • LipidSoft™ CC: 5%
  • SPF Protect Ultra™: 20%

The mixing instructions are to combine the water phase to form a gel, combine the oil phase, and then gradually add the oil phase to the water phase while stirring to form a cream.

  1. If I want to add PowderCream™ and Silk Mica Powder, when should I add them during the mixing process?
  2. After ordering a tester, I learned that Azelaic Acid has exfoliating properties and sun exposure should be avoided during use. Can the tester mixed into the sunscreen still be used?
  3. After receiving the product, I applied Stabilized Vitamin C Serum first, followed by the sunscreen formulation tester. I experienced a stinging sensation and washed it off. What caused this reaction?

Answer

Here are the answers to your questions based on the staff's reply:

  1. Mixing Instructions for PowderCream™ and Silk Mica Powder: If you are mixing the formula yourself and want to add PowderCream™ and Silk Mica Powder, you can add them in the final step after the cream base has been formed.
  2. Using Azelaic Acid in Sunscreen: Regarding the tester formulation containing Azelaic Acid and sunscreen, even though Azelaic Acid has exfoliating properties and it's recommended to avoid sunlight during use, the tester can still be used as normal. However, you should still avoid direct sunlight.
  3. Stinging Sensation: The stinging sensation experienced after applying the Stabilized Vitamin C Serum followed by the sunscreen tester is likely due to the high concentration of Vitamin C in the serum. This is a normal initial reaction for users who haven't used it before and should subside within the first 5-7 days as your skin gets used to it. If the irritation is bothersome, you can wash it off and try again the next day.