DIY Water Essence with Plankton, Whitening, and Anti-Wrinkle Actives
Question
I would like to know the ingredients and their ratios to formulate a water essence similar to a popular brand that contains marine plankton.
Additionally, I would like to add ingredients for:
- Skin whitening
- Wrinkle reduction
The current product works well for my skin but is expensive, so I want to mix my own.
Answer
Creating Your Own Water Essence
You're interested in creating a Water Essence similar to a popular brand with marine plankton, and adding benefits for whitening and wrinkles. While replicating an exact commercial formula is difficult, you can formulate a highly effective essence using key ingredients.
A Water Essence is primarily water-based, designed for lightweight hydration and delivering active ingredients deep into the skin.
Here are some key components and suggested ingredients from our database:
Base Ingredients
- Purified Water: This will be the main component (typically 70-90%).
- Humectants: Ingredients like Glycerin or Butylene Glycol help attract and retain moisture. Use at 3-10%.
Marine Plankton for Skin Vitality
To achieve the marine plankton effect, consider these options:
- Marine Plankton (Lifting, Tightening): Contains polysaccharides for immediate tightening and wrinkle reduction. Use at 1-2%. It provides a temporary lifting effect and can reduce wrinkles with continuous use.
- Plankton Artemia Extract: This extract helps protect skin from environmental stress, increases cell metabolism, boosts collagen production, and reduces UV-induced DNA damage. Use at 0.5-5% (2% is recommended, higher amounts can feel sticky).
You can choose one or combine both depending on desired effects and formulation compatibility.
Skin Whitening Ingredients
To address skin dullness and hyperpigmentation, consider these effective ingredients:
- Phenylethyl Resorcinol (e.q. SymWhite 377): A highly effective and safe whitening agent that inhibits melanin production. Use at 0.1-1.0% (0.5% recommended for leave-on products). Note: Requires careful formulation regarding pH (4-5) and compatibility with certain ingredients (avoid amino acids, urea, some proteins).
- Tranexamic Acid (Trans-White™): Works to brighten skin and reduce blemishes by reducing melanin formation. Use up to 3% in cosmetics. It's water-soluble and stable across a wider pH range (3-8).
- GlyciWhite™ (Glycinamide HCL): Effectively counteracts melanin production gently. Use at 3-10% (5% recommended). Avoid heat above 60°C during mixing.
Choose one or a combination based on desired potency and formulation ease.
Anti-Wrinkle Ingredients
To target fine lines and wrinkles, incorporate these powerful actives:
- Pep®-Coll (Palmitoyl tripeptide-5): A peptide that stimulates collagen production, effectively reducing wrinkles in depth, width, and length. Use at 1-5% (3% recommended). Add in the final step below 40°C.
- Wrinkle-Lax™ (Steviol glycosides): Works by relaxing muscle contractions, similar to Botox, to reduce expression lines. Use at 0.3-0.5%. Soluble in water, avoid heat over 60°C.
- REGU®-AGE: Reduces dark circles and puffiness around the eyes, strengthens skin, and reduces inflammation. While often used for eyes, it can contribute to overall skin firmness and anti-aging in a face essence. Use at 2-5%. Mix in the final step below 40°C, pH 5.0-8.0 (recommended 5-6.5).
Select one or more ingredients based on the specific wrinkle concerns you want to target.
Other Essential Components
- Preservative: Crucial for preventing microbial growth in water-based formulas. Choose a broad-spectrum preservative suitable for your chosen pH range.
- pH Adjuster: Lactic Acid or Citric Acid (for lowering pH) or Triethanolamine (for raising pH) may be needed to ensure stability and efficacy of active ingredients.
- Thickener (Optional): A small amount of a water-soluble thickener like Xanthan Gum can give the essence a slightly more viscous texture if desired.
Sample Formula Structure (Approximate Percentages)
- Purified Water: 70-85%
- Humectants (e.g., Glycerin, Butylene Glycol): 5-10%
- Marine Plankton Ingredient(s): 1-5% (based on recommended usage rates)
- Whitening Ingredient(s): 1-5% (based on recommended usage rates)
- Anti-Wrinkle Ingredient(s): 1-5% (based on recommended usage rates)
- Preservative: As per supplier's recommendation (typically 0.5-1.5%)
- pH Adjuster: As needed
- Thickener (Optional): 0.1-0.5%
Total: 100%
Important Notes:
- Always follow the specific mixing instructions and usage rates for each ingredient.
- Pay close attention to the recommended pH range for each active ingredient to ensure stability and effectiveness. You may need to adjust the final formula pH.
- Start with lower percentages of active ingredients and increase gradually if needed, observing your skin's reaction.
- Perform small test batches before making a large quantity.
- Ensure proper hygiene during mixing and use appropriate containers.
This guide provides a framework. You can customize the specific ingredients and their percentages based on your preferences and desired results.
Related Products Mentioned
Pep®-Coll (Palmitoyl tripeptide-5)
REGU®-AGE (CB)
Wrinkle-Lax™ คลายริ้วรอย
Tranexamic Acid (Trans-White™)
Plankton Artemia Extract
Marine Plankton (Lifting, Tightening)