DIY Whitening Body Cream Formulation Review

Question

I want to make a whitening body cream with a gel-cream texture that is smooth, easy to spread, non-sticky, feels like a serum but is thick like a cream.

I have proposed the following formulation:

Glycerin 10%
Cymeticone 5%
Vitamin B3 3%
GlucoBright 4%
Pro polymer 1%
Water 69%
Light Cream Maker 1%
Sweet Almond Oil 5%
Natural White Beeswax 2%

My proposed mixing procedure is:

Mix ingredients 1-6 with water until combined.
Heat ingredients 6-8 to 75°C and let cool.
Combine the mixture from step 1 with the mixture from step 2 and stir until combined.

Is this formulation and procedure correct? Should I adjust, add, or reduce anything?

MySkinRecipes Expert · Accepted Answer

Subject: Review of Whitening Body Cream Formulation

Hello! Thank you for sharing your formulation for a whitening body cream with a gel-cream texture.

Here's a review of your proposed formula and procedure:

Ingredients:
The ingredients you've chosen are suitable for a whitening and moisturizing cream with a light feel:

Glycerin, Sweet Almond Oil, and Beeswax provide hydration and emollience.
Vitamin B3 (Niacinamide) and GlucoBright (N-Acetyl Glucosamine) are excellent active ingredients for skin brightening.
Cymeticone and Pro polymer should help achieve the desired smooth, non-sticky, gel-cream texture.

Percentages:
The percentages for the active ingredients (Vitamin B3, GlucoBright) and humectant (Glycerin) are within effective ranges. The percentages for the oil phase (Sweet Almond Oil, Beeswax) and water-phase thickener (Pro polymer) seem reasonable for a gel-cream texture.

However, the percentage of Light Cream Maker (1%) seems quite low for emulsifying 7% oil phase (plus potentially the silicone). This might lead to emulsion instability over time (separation). You might need to increase the emulsifier percentage or consider a different emulsifier system if you encounter stability issues.

Mixing Procedure:
The proposed mixing procedure needs adjustment, especially for creating a stable emulsion with beeswax. Heating the oil phase is correct, but letting it cool before combining with the water phase will prevent proper emulsification, as the beeswax and oils will solidify or become too viscous.

For a stable hot-process emulsion like this, both the water phase and the oil phase should be heated to the same temperature (typically around 70-75°C) and then combined while hot, followed by continuous stirring during the cooling process.

Here is a suggested corrected procedure:

Prepare the Water Phase (Phase A): Combine Water, Glycerin, Vitamin B3, GlucoBright, and Pro polymer in a heat-resistant container. Heat this phase to 75°C. Stir to ensure soluble ingredients are dissolved/dispersed.
Prepare the Oil Phase (Phase B): In a separate heat-resistant container, combine Sweet Almond Oil, Natural White Beeswax, Cymeticone, and Light Cream Maker. Heat this phase to 75°C, stirring until the beeswax is fully melted and ingredients are combined.
Combine Phases: Once both phases are at 75°C, slowly pour the Oil Phase (B) into the Water Phase (A) while stirring continuously and vigorously. Using a stick blender or high-shear mixer for a few minutes can help create a finer emulsion.
Cooling: Continue stirring the mixture gently as it cools down to room temperature. This is crucial for the emulsion to set properly.
Final Adjustments: Once cooled, you can check the texture and pH if needed. Add any other desired ingredients like preservatives or fragrance at appropriate temperatures (usually below 40°C).

Summary:
Your ingredient selection is good for the desired properties. The main point to adjust is the mixing procedure to ensure a stable emulsion. Also, keep an eye on the emulsion stability; you might need to optimize the emulsifier amount.

I hope this feedback is helpful!