Double Hyaluronic Gel Formulation Review, Mixing Method, Acne Marks, and BHA Usage

Question

I would like to request a review of my proposed Double Hyaluronic Gel formulation and mixing method. I also have a question about the usage of BHA.

My proposed formula ingredients and percentages are:

Beta Glucan 1%
N-Acetyl Glucosamine 4%
Vitamin B3 (Niacinamide, Niacin) 4%
Hyaluronic Acid (Nano Molecule) 1%
Hyaluronic Acid (Standard Molecule) 1%
Argireline
Centella Asiatica (Gotu Kola) Extract
Calendula Extract

My proposed mixing method is:

Mix Beta Glucan 1% with water, stir briefly, then warm to 70-80°C. Stir again until completely dissolved.
Add N-Acetyl Glucosamine 4%, Vitamin B3 (Niacinamide, Niacin) 4%, and Hyaluronic Nano 1%. Stir for about 3 minutes to ensure complete dissolution.
Refrigerate the liquid from step 2 for about 3 hours until very cold.
Remove from the refrigerator and add Hyaluronic Standard Molecule 1 gram. Stir thoroughly, acknowledging it may not dissolve completely immediately as it needs time to absorb water. Stir for about 5 minutes.
Refrigerate the mixture from step 4 (water with incompletely dissolved Hyaluronic Standard Molecule) for another 3 hours.
After refrigeration, it should become a uniform gel. If not smooth, stir for another 2-3 minutes.
Add the remaining liquid ingredients (Argireline, Centella Asiatica (Gotu Kola) Extract, and Calendula Extract). Stir until well combined.

Could you please review this formula and mixing method? Additionally, could you confirm if BHA should only be used at night?

MySkinRecipes Expert · Accepted Answer

Formulation Review and Advice

Here is a review of your proposed Double Hyaluronic Gel formulation and answers to your questions:

Formula Adjustments and Mixing Method

Based on the feedback, the recommended adjustment is to reduce the concentration of both Hyaluronic Acid (Nano Molecule) and Hyaluronic Acid (Standard Molecule) from 1% each to 0.5% each, for a total combined concentration of 1%. This concentration is considered optimal for cost-effectiveness while still providing significant hydration benefits.

The revised mixing method is as follows:

Mix Beta Glucan 1% with water and warm to 70-80°C. Stir until completely dissolved.
Add N-Acetyl Glucosamine 4% and Vitamin B3 (Niacinamide) 4% to the water from step 1. Stir for about 3 minutes until fully dissolved.
Add both Hyaluronic Acid (Nano Molecule) 0.5% and Hyaluronic Acid (Standard Molecule) 0.5% powders to the liquid from step 2. Close the lid and shake for 1-2 minutes.
Refrigerate for about 3 hours. Check if the powder is fully dissolved. If not, shake again and refrigerate further until a smooth, uniform gel is formed.
Once the gel is smooth, add the remaining liquid ingredients: Argireline 5%, Centella Asiatica (Gotu Kola) Extract 5%, and Calendula Extract 4%. Stir until well combined.

Effectiveness on Acne Marks

Your formula contains several excellent ingredients known for their ability to help reduce the appearance of both red and dark acne marks:

Vitamin B3 (Niacinamide): Known to reduce redness and hyperpigmentation, and has anti-inflammatory properties.
N-Acetyl Glucosamine: Works synergistically with Niacinamide to target dark spots and also aids in skin exfoliation and hydration.
Calendula Extract: Provides anti-inflammatory benefits, helps reduce redness from acne, and supports wound healing and skin regeneration.
Centella Asiatica (Gotu Kola) Extract: Effective in reducing inflammation, helping with acne scars and redness, and promoting collagen synthesis.
Beta Glucan: Offers anti-inflammatory effects, soothes irritated skin, and supports wound healing and skin barrier function.

The combination of these ingredients in your gel base should be quite effective in improving the appearance of acne-related pigmentation and redness by reducing inflammation, promoting healing, and targeting dark spots.

BHA Usage

Regarding BHA (Salicylic Acid), it is generally recommended for night-time use only. This is because BHA can increase skin sensitivity to sunlight. If you will be indoors all day without sun exposure, daytime use might be possible, but it's safer to apply it in the evening as part of your routine.