Electrolyte-tolerant thickeners/bases for formulas with Azelaic Acid

Asked by: ideepindesign On: February 03, 2017 Product Type: Cosmetics

Question

Based on the issue where Azelaic Acid (which has high electrolyte levels) causes thinning and excessive foaming when using Pro Polymer (Acrylate Crosspolymer) or Pro Polymer Silk (Polyquaternium-37), what thickeners/bases are suitable for formulations (gel, cream, serum) that can tolerate or do not react with high electrolyte concentrations?

  • For gel formulas, what alternatives to Pro Polymer are recommended?
  • For cream formulas, what emulsifier/base is recommended?
  • For serum formulas, what base is recommended?

Answer

Based on the provided conversation:

The foaming is likely caused by the reaction between Azelaic Acid and either Pro Polymer (Acrylate Crosspolymer) or Pro Polymer Silk (Polyquaternium-37). The staff mentioned that Pro Polymer Silk is particularly sensitive to high electrolyte levels, which can occur with a high concentration of Azelaic Acid, leading to thinning and excessive foaming.

The conversation does not mention specific anti-foaming agents. Instead, it recommends using alternative thickeners that are more compatible with high electrolyte levels to prevent the foaming issue. The recommended alternatives depend on the type of formula:

  • For gel formulas: Hydroxyethyl Cellulose or Xanthan Gum.
  • For cream formulas: Butter Cream Maker.
  • For serum formulas: Silky Serum Base.