Advice on Emulsifiers and Preservatives for Aftershave Splash and Water Sprays

Hello! It's great you're working on several grooming products. Let's address your questions about emulsifiers and preservatives for your aftershave splash and water-based spray, keeping your goal of natural ingredients in mind.

Emulsifier for Aftershave Splash and Water Sprays

You're right that oil and water won't mix on their own. To combine your Jojoba Oil and essential oils with Witch Hazel and other water-based ingredients like Rose Water and Cucumber Extract into a clear or lightly dispersed liquid, you need an emulsifier.

Based on your goal for a light, sprayable texture, Light Lotion Maker is an excellent choice. It's an ECOCERT-certified emulsifier designed for light formulas and can be used in a cold process, which is convenient for home formulation.

• How to use: Mix Light Lotion Maker with your oils (Jojoba Oil, essential oils). In a separate container, have your water-based ingredients (Witch Hazel, Rose Water, DI Water, extracts). Slowly add the oil mixture to the water phase while blending continuously until fully combined and clear/dispersed.
• Usage Rate: Light Lotion Maker is typically used at 2-4% depending on the oil content (up to 40% oil). For sprayable formulas, the description suggests 3-4% Light Lotion Maker, potentially combined with a small amount of a co-emulsifier like Polysorbate 80 (1%) or a thickener like Xanthan Gum (around 0.2%) to improve stability and prevent separation over time.

Preservatives

• Oil-Only Products (Pre-shave oil, Solid cologne): For products that are purely oil-based, preservatives are generally not necessary for personal use, especially if you plan to use them up quickly. However, if you intend to sell these products, adding a preservative is highly recommended to protect against potential microbial contamination that could occur during customer use (e.g., if water accidentally gets into the product).
• Water-Based Products (Aftershave splash, Water-based spray): Any product containing water must include a broad-spectrum preservative system. Water is a breeding ground for bacteria, mold, and fungi, which can spoil the product and be harmful to the skin.

Natural or Near-Natural Preservative Options

You mentioned interest in 1,3-Propanediol, Mild Preserved Eco, and Thyme Kill™.

• 1,3-Propanediol: This is a natural ingredient derived from glucose fermentation. It's a great humectant (helps retain moisture) and solvent, and it can act as a preservative booster, meaning it can enhance the effectiveness of other preservatives. However, it is not a standalone broad-spectrum preservative and should not be used alone to preserve a water-based product.
• Mild Preserved Eco: This is a popular choice for formulations aiming for a "preservative-free" claim because it is not classified as a preservative by the FDA. It is a blend of Ethylhexylglycerin and 1,3-Propanediol and provides effective broad-spectrum preservation for cosmetic formulas. It is gentle and odorless.
  • Usage Rate: Typically used at 1.0-1.5% for general preservation, up to 2.0% for formulas with high natural content or risk of contamination.
  • How to use: It can be added in the final cooling phase (below 80°C) and needs to be blended well to dissolve clearly in water-based formulas.
• Thyme Kill™: This ingredient (o-Cymen-5-ol) is effective at very low concentrations (0.05-0.1%) and acts as a preservative booster. It is not a standalone preservative and should be used in combination with other preservatives for adequate protection. It has a very light scent that won't affect your product's fragrance.
  • How to use: Thyme Kill™ is a powder and needs to be pre-dissolved in a solvent like Propylene Glycol (1g Thyme Kill™ per 10g Propylene Glycol) before adding it to your formula.

Recommended Preservation System:

For effective preservation in your water-based products while leaning towards natural options, a combination of Mild Preserved Eco (1.0-1.5%) and Thyme Kill™ (0.05-0.1%) is a good approach. Mild Preserved Eco provides broad-spectrum coverage, and Thyme Kill™ boosts its effectiveness, especially against bacteria.

Mixing Preservatives:

Add the pre-dissolved Thyme Kill™ and Mild Preserved Eco to your formula during the cooling phase, after the emulsion has formed (if using Light Lotion Maker). Ensure thorough mixing to distribute the preservatives evenly throughout the product.

"All Natural, Preservative Free, Homebrew" Claims:

• Homebrew: This is certainly achievable for personal use.
• Preservative Free: While Mild Preserved Eco allows for a "preservative-free" claim according to FDA classification, it still performs the function of preventing microbial growth, which is essential for safety in water-based products. True "preservative-free" water-based products are extremely difficult to formulate safely for typical storage and use conditions.
• All Natural: Achieving a truly "all natural" formula with effective, broad-spectrum preservation is challenging. Ingredients like Light Lotion Maker are ECOCERT-certified (natural origin), 1,3-Propanediol is natural, and Mild Preserved Eco contains natural-derived components, but Thyme Kill™ is synthetic. You can aim for formulas with a high percentage of natural ingredients, but claiming "all natural" might be difficult while ensuring microbial safety.

For home use, you have more flexibility, but for any product you might share or sell, robust preservation is crucial for safety and stability.

Let me know if you have more questions!