Emulsifier for Water in Balm

For a balm formulation that includes a water-based extract (3% in your case), a suitable emulsifier is needed to bind the water phase with the oil/wax phase.

• Water Balm™ is specifically designed for balm products (lip balm, butter balm, etc.) and can incorporate up to 10% water in an oil or wax base. This makes it suitable for your formulation which contains 3% water-based extract.
  • Usage Rate: The recommended usage rate for Water Balm™ is 1-10%, with 5% being recommended for binding up to 10% water. For your 3% water-based extract, using around 5% Water Balm™ should be effective.
  • Mixing: It should be mixed in the oil phase by heating to around 70°C. After mixing the water phase separately, add the water phase to the hot oil phase while stirring or blending well. Continue stirring until cool.

Regarding your question about Polysorbate 20 (Tween 20):

• Polysorbate 20 is soluble in water and glycerin but is incompletely soluble (causes turbidity) in oil. While it can help solubilize small amounts of oil in water or vice versa, it is generally used as a solubilizer for fragrances or essential oils in water-based products or as an O/W emulsifier. For a primarily oil/wax-based balm with a water phase, Water Balm™ is a more appropriate and effective emulsifier for creating a stable texture.

Preservative

Since your balm formulation contains a water phase (the water-based extract), it is susceptible to microbial growth. Therefore, adding a preservative is necessary to prevent spoilage and ensure product safety.

• Mild Preserved Eco™ is a suitable preservative for cosmetic formulations. It is gentle and effective.
  • Usage Rate: For general cosmetic formulas to prevent spoilage, the recommended usage rate is 1.0-1.5%.
  • Mixing: It can be added in the last step of the formula when it has a gel or cream texture, or it can be dispersed in the oil phase by blending. It can withstand heat up to 80°C for a short period.

In summary, to incorporate your 3% water-based extract into your balm formulation and ensure stability and safety:

1. Use Water Balm™ as the emulsifier, likely around 5%.
2. Add Mild Preserved Eco™ as a preservative at 1.0-1.5%.