Emulsifiers for Serum with 10% Oil

For a serum formulation containing approximately 10% oil, using an Oil-in-Water (O/W) emulsifier is recommended to create a light, non-greasy texture and ensure the oil and water phases remain combined without separating.

Here are a few suitable emulsifiers and their recommended usage rates for a 10% oil serum:

• Light Lotion Maker: This is a high-performance O/W emulsifier that can handle up to 40% oil. For a 10% oil serum, a usage rate of 2-3% is typically sufficient. It can be used in both hot and cold process formulations.
• Sucrose Cream Maker™: A natural-based O/W emulsifier that provides a silky, light feel. For 10% oil, a usage rate of 2-3% is suitable. This emulsifier needs to be dissolved in the oil phase using heat.
• CreamMaker EG™: Primarily a thickener and stabilizer, it also functions as a binder suitable for serums and is excellent for cold process formulations. For a light serum with 10% oil, a usage rate of 1.5-2% is generally effective.

General Mixing Method

The specific mixing method can vary slightly depending on the chosen emulsifier (especially regarding temperature and which phase the emulsifier is added to first). However, a general approach for O/W emulsions involves:

1. Prepare Phases: Measure and prepare your water phase ingredients and oil phase ingredients separately in two different containers.
2. Add Emulsifier: Add the chosen emulsifier to the phase it is soluble in or recommended for (e.g., Light Lotion Maker and Sucrose Cream Maker™ are typically added to the oil phase; CreamMaker EG™ is added to the water phase).
3. Heat (if required): If using an emulsifier that requires heat (like Sucrose Cream Maker™ or if doing a hot process with Light Lotion Maker), heat both the water and oil phases to the recommended temperature (usually around 70-75°C) until the emulsifier is fully dissolved in the oil phase.
4. Combine Phases: Slowly pour the oil phase into the water phase while continuously stirring or using a homogenizer. If using CreamMaker EG™ (added to water), slowly add the oil phase to the water phase while stirring.
5. Emulsify: Continue stirring or homogenizing for several minutes until a stable emulsion forms and the mixture cools down. For hot process, continue stirring while cooling.
6. Add Heat-Sensitive Ingredients: Once the emulsion has cooled sufficiently (usually below 40°C), add any heat-sensitive ingredients like preservatives, fragrances, or certain active ingredients.
7. Final Adjustments: Check the pH and adjust if necessary. Stir well before packaging.

Always refer to the specific instructions for the emulsifier you choose, as optimal usage rates and mixing methods can vary.