Emulsifiers for Clear C E Ferulic Serum with Low pH

For your C E Ferulic serum formulation containing 2% Vitamin E and 0.5% Bisabolol in the oil phase, aiming for a clear serum in a low pH (2.5-3.5) environment with electrolytes, selecting the right emulsifier or solubilizer is crucial.

Using Laureth-23

Regarding Laureth-23, it is a suitable emulsifier for low pH formulas. To achieve a clear serum with a 2.5% oil phase (2% Vitamin E + 0.5% Bisabolol), you would typically need to use Laureth-23 at a percentage that effectively emulsifies this oil load. While a general guideline might suggest around 3 times the oil phase, the exact percentage for optimal clarity and stability in your specific formula will require testing. The typical usage range for Laureth-23 is 1-5%, not exceeding 6%. You may find that a percentage towards the higher end of this range is needed. Regarding your concern about Laureth-23 causing clogged pores, the comedogenicity of ingredients can vary depending on concentration and individual skin sensitivity.

Alternative for Clarity: Flora Solve Clear

As an alternative for achieving clarity in a low pH formula, Flora Solve Clear was suggested. Flora Solve Clear is primarily a solubilizer designed to incorporate fragrances and essential oils into water-based formulas, creating a clear solution. While it can help solubilize other oil-soluble ingredients like Vitamin E and Bisabolol in a low pH environment, its effectiveness in creating a stable, clear emulsion with a 2.5% oil phase needs to be carefully evaluated. The suggested usage for solubilizing is typically 2-5 parts Flora Solve Clear to 1 part oil. Using 3% Flora Solve Clear for 2.5% oil phase is a lower ratio, so rigorous stability testing (including temperature variations) is essential to ensure the formula remains clear and does not separate over time, especially with the presence of electrolytes. Flora Solve Clear is a clear, colorless, and odorless liquid.

White vs. Clear Serum

You also asked for an emulsifier that results in a white appearance, works at low percentages without high shear mixing, and keeps the serum clear. It's important to clarify that an emulsifier that makes a serum white creates an opaque emulsion, which is the opposite of a clear serum. Emulsifiers that produce white emulsions typically function differently and may require high shear mixing to form stable droplets. Therefore, an ingredient that makes the serum both white and clear is not possible. If a clear serum is your goal, you should focus on solubilizers or emulsifiers suitable for creating clear systems.

Adjusting Vitamin E Percentage

Reducing Vitamin E to 1% would lower the total oil phase to 1.5% (1% Vitamin E + 0.5% Bisabolol). This might slightly reduce the amount of emulsifier or solubilizer needed to achieve clarity, but the challenges posed by the low pH and electrolytes regarding formula stability would still require thorough testing of the chosen ingredient.

Conclusion

In summary, for a clear serum at low pH with your oil phase, Laureth-23 is a viable emulsifier, but the percentage needs testing for clarity and stability, likely towards the higher end of its range. Flora Solve Clear is an alternative for clarity, but its effectiveness with your specific oil load and the formula's complexity (low pH, electrolytes) requires extensive stability testing. Achieving a white and clear serum simultaneously is not feasible, as white indicates opacity. Regardless of the chosen ingredient or Vitamin E percentage, comprehensive stability testing is crucial for this challenging formulation.