Emulsion Separation Issue

ถามโดย: puntipa.cmh เมื่อ: March 08, 2021 ประเภทผลิตภัณฑ์: เครื่องสำอาง

คำถาม

I need advice regarding an emulsion formulation. After letting it sit for 2-3 nights, phase separation occurred as shown in the picture. The formula pH is 4-6 and contains the following ingredients: Water q.s 100, Glycerin 2, Mild Preserved Eco 1, Jojoba Oil 0.7, sheabutter light oil 0.8, Avocado Oil 1, Almond Oil 1, Grape Seed Oil 1, Light Lotion Maker 2, Aloe Vera Extract 1, Double Hyaluronic acid 3, water lock 2, GlucoBright 2.5, Mannitol 2, Hydrogel 3, Viscolam AT1000P 1. What emulsifier should I modify or add to fix this?

คำตอบ

Based on your formula and the issue of separation after a few days, the most likely cause is insufficient stabilization of the emulsion. Your formula contains a total oil phase of 4.5% (Jojoba Oil 0.7%, Shea Butter Light Oil 0.8%, Avocado Oil 1%, Almond Oil 1%, Grape Seed Oil 1%) and uses Light Lotion Maker (Glyceryl Oleate Citrate) at 2% as the primary emulsifier, supported by Viscolam AT 100P (Sodium Polyacryloyldimethyl Taurate, Hydrogenated Polydecene, Trideceth-10) at 1% as a thickener and stabilizer.

Light Lotion Maker is a good emulsifier for light textures and cold processes, but it often requires additional support to maintain long-term stability, especially in formulas with a significant water phase containing various active ingredients and polymers like Double Hyaluron, WaterLock, and Hydro Gel.

Viscolam AT 100P is a polymeric thickener and stabilizer. The product description recommends a usage rate of 1-3%, with 1.5% being recommended for general cream or lotion formulas. You are currently using 1%, which might not be sufficient to create a strong enough gel network to prevent the oil droplets from coalescing and separating over time, particularly with the complexity of your water phase ingredients. Aloe Vera Extract, being an electrolyte, could also potentially contribute to reducing the viscosity provided by some polymers, further impacting stability.

Recommendations to fix the separation:

  1. Increase Viscolam AT 100P: The most direct approach is to increase the concentration of Viscolam AT 100P. Try increasing it to 1.5% or even 2%. This should significantly improve the structural stability of your emulsion by building a stronger network in the water phase to hold the oil droplets in place.
  2. Add a Co-stabilizer (Optional but Recommended): Consider adding a small amount of Xanthan Gum (around 0.2-0.3%) to the water phase. Xanthan Gum is a highly effective polysaccharide gum that works synergistically with many polymeric thickeners to enhance emulsion stability and viscosity. It helps create a more robust gel structure.
  3. Consider a Co-emulsifier (Less Preferred if aiming for PEG-free): If increasing the thickener and adding Xanthan Gum is still not sufficient, you could consider adding a small amount of a co-emulsifier like Polysorbate 80 (e.g., 0.5-1%). The description for Light Lotion Maker even suggests using Polysorbate 80 for spray formulas to prevent separation, indicating it can provide needed stability support. However, this would introduce a PEG-based ingredient if you are trying to avoid them.

Suggested Action:

Start by increasing the Viscolam AT 100P concentration to 1.5% or 2% while keeping other ingredients the same. If separation still occurs, try adding 0.2-0.3% Xanthan Gum to your water phase in addition to the increased Viscolam AT 100P.

Adjusting the thickener/stabilizer is usually the most effective way to prevent separation in O/W emulsions like yours, especially when using emulsifiers that benefit from additional support.

ผลิตภัณฑ์ที่เกี่ยวข้องที่กล่าวถึง

Aloe Vera Extract (extraction ratio 10:1 FullAssay™)
Aloe Vera Extract (extraction ratio 10:1 FullAssay™)
เครื่องสำอาง
Jojoba Oil (Golden - Deodorized)
Jojoba Oil (Golden - Deodorized)
เครื่องสำอาง
Avocado Oil (Refined)
Avocado Oil (Refined)
เครื่องสำอาง
GlucoBright™ (Acetyl Glucosamine)
GlucoBright™ (Acetyl Glucosamine)
เครื่องสำอาง
NaturalProfile™ Grape Seed Oil (Cold-Pressed)
NaturalProfile™ Grape Seed Oil (Cold-Pressed)
เครื่องสำอาง
NaturalProfile™ Sweet Almond Oil (Cold-Pressed)
NaturalProfile™ Sweet Almond Oil (Cold-Pressed)
เครื่องสำอาง
Glycerin (USP/Food Grade)
Glycerin (USP/Food Grade)
เครื่องสำอาง
Polysorbate 80 (Tween 80)
Polysorbate 80 (Tween 80)
เครื่องสำอาง
WaterLock™ (Polyquaternium-51)
WaterLock™ (Polyquaternium-51)
เครื่องสำอาง
Double Hyaluron Liquid
Double Hyaluron Liquid
เครื่องสำอาง
Hydro Gel (Biosaccharide Gum-1)
Hydro Gel (Biosaccharide Gum-1)
เครื่องสำอาง
Shea Butter Light Oil
Shea Butter Light Oil
เครื่องสำอาง
Mild Preserved Eco™ (Preservative-Free)
Mild Preserved Eco™ (Preservative-Free)
เครื่องสำอาง
Mannitol
Mannitol
เครื่องสำอาง
Light Lotion Maker
Light Lotion Maker
เครื่องสำอาง
Viscolam AT 100P
Viscolam AT 100P
เครื่องสำอาง
Xanthan Gum (clear gel type, normal texture, 80 Mesh)
Xanthan Gum (clear gel type, normal texture, 80 Mesh)
เครื่องสำอาง