Enhancing Penetration in Hair Serum Formulation

Asked by: paisal.asa On: June 01, 2023 Product Type: Cosmetics

Question

Seeking advice on enhancing penetration in a hair serum formulation already containing 2% Laurocapram (Water Soluble). Specifically, which of Ethoxydiglycol, Phospholipid, or PEG/PPG-14/7 Dimethyl Ether can be added, whether multiple can be used together, recommended usage percentages for enhanced absorption, and potential safety concerns when combining multiple penetration enhancers.

Answer

Enhancing Penetration in Hair Serum Formulation

Regarding your questions about adding penetration enhancers to your hair serum formulation that already uses Laurocapram (Water Soluble) at 2%, here is information based on the ingredients you are considering:

  1. Which one should be added to work with Laurocapram?

    • The information for Laurocapram (Water Soluble) suggests avoiding use with other carriers, except for 1,2-Hexanediol, as the overall efficiency might be reduced.
    • However, the information for Ethoxydiglycol and Phospholipid states that they can be used in conjunction with Laurocapram and other ingredients to increase efficiency.
    • Based on the available information, Ethoxydiglycol and Phospholipid are options that could potentially enhance penetration when used with Laurocapram, despite the caution regarding combining Laurocapram with other carriers. Ethoxydiglycol is noted to help with color penetration into hair, which may be relevant for a hair serum. Phospholipid helps carry both water and oil-soluble substances and also offers moisturizing and soothing properties.
    • Information for PEG/PPG-14/7 Dimethyl Ether was not found in the system, so specific recommendations cannot be provided for this ingredient.
  2. Can more than one be added, or even all four?

    • According to the Laurocapram information, it is recommended to avoid using it with other carriers except 1,2-Hexanediol.
    • Conversely, the information for Ethoxydiglycol and Phospholipid indicates they can be used together.
    • Using multiple carriers together is possible, but you should consider the overall compatibility of the ingredients in the formula and may need to reduce the concentration of each to avoid issues.
    • Since information for PEG/PPG-14/7 Dimethyl Ether was not found, using all four is not possible.
  3. Recommended percentages for each when used together to maximize absorption?

    • The maximum usage rates for each ingredient based on the available information are:
      • Laurocapram (Water Soluble): 1-3% (recommended 2%)
      • Ethoxydiglycol: 1-10% (for leave-on products, not exceeding 2.6%)
      • Phospholipid: 0.5-3%
      • PhosCare™ (Water Soluble 15% Phospholipid): 0.5-3%
    • There is no specific information on the optimal combined percentages for maximum absorption when used together. Combining them may require using lower percentages of each than their individual maximums to avoid irritation or other issues. You should test to find the appropriate amount for your formulation, considering efficacy and safety, and always adhere to the maximum usage rates set by regulatory bodies for each product type (especially Ethoxydiglycol for leave-on products, not exceeding 2.6%).
  4. Are there safety side effects when using multiple enhancers?

    • Using multiple penetration enhancers together can increase the risk of irritation or sensitization, especially if used at high concentrations.
    • Ethoxydiglycol can help carry more substances into the skin, including potentially irritating ones. Caution should be exercised when using it in formulas containing ingredients that might cause issues.
    • Phospholipid has properties that can help reduce irritation and strengthen the skin barrier.
    • It is crucial to comply with the maximum usage rates set by regulatory bodies for each ingredient in that product type and to perform compatibility and safety testing on the overall formulation.

In summary, if you wish to add a penetration enhancer besides Laurocapram, consider Ethoxydiglycol or Phospholipid. Start with low concentrations and test for results and safety. Using multiple enhancers together is possible but requires careful consideration of compatibility and potential safety side effects. Always check and adhere to maximum usage rates according to relevant regulations.