Essence Formulation Clumping Issue with Thickeners

Question

Based on the following Essence formulation which uses Xanthan Gum 0.3% and Pro Polymer 0.5% as thickeners, the texture is clumping as shown in the attached image. Could you please recommend alternative thickeners that would prevent this issue? The formulation ingredients are: DI Water q.s 100, Glycerin 3, Pure Succinic acid 1, Licorice Extract (Glabridin 4.5%) 0.2, Brewery Yeast 0.3, Yeast Radiance 0.3, Ascorbyl Glucosides 0.3, White Egg Enzyme 0.3, BG 1, Moist 24 2.5, Mild Preserved Eco 1.

MySkinRecipes Expert · Accepted Answer

Essence Formulation Clumping Issue

It appears the clumping issue in your Essence formulation, which includes ingredients like Succinic Acid and Ascorbyl Glucoside, may be due to the sensitivity of the Xanthan Gum and Pro Polymer thickeners to the formula's pH or electrolyte content. Some thickeners can lose their effectiveness or clump in the presence of acidic ingredients or charged substances.

To achieve a stable gel texture, consider using thickeners that are more tolerant of varying pH levels and electrolytes. Recommended alternatives include:

Sepimax Zen: Highly tolerant to salt and pH changes.
Hydroxyethyl Acrylate/Sodium Acryloyldimethyl Taurate Copolymer: Works well across a broad pH range (3-12) and is compatible with electrolytes.
CreamThick™: Resistant to electrolytes and effective in a pH range of 3-9.
AnyGel™: A modified Xanthan Gum with enhanced resistance to acids, alkalis, and electrolytes.
ThixoGel™: Resistant to acid, base, and electrolytes, with a wide pH range (2-10).

Always test new thickeners in small batches and follow their specific usage instructions to ensure compatibility and achieve the desired texture.