Essence Formulation for Wrinkles and Lifting: Adjusting Ingredients and Texture
Question
I want to formulate an essence using Hyaluronic Acid Gel Base and Aloe Vera Gel (Heavy) to address wrinkles and lifting, suitable for normal to good skin without being too oily or sticky. I plan to add the following ingredients to 70g of the mixed base:
- DMAE (SkinTight MD™) Liquid: 20g
- Wrinkle-Fill™ (Acetyl-Tyrosine): 2g
- Natto Gum (Nutto Gum): 5g
- Centella Asiatica Extract (Madecassoside 90%): 5g
Is this formulation correct and suitable? How can I ensure it targets wrinkles effectively and has a pleasant texture?
Answer
Essence Formulation Adjustment
1. Mixing Hyaluronic Acid and Aloe Vera Bases
As the staff previously mentioned, you can definitely mix the Hyaluronic Acid Gel Base and Aloe Vera Gel (Heavy) together. Combining these two bases will enhance the moisturizing properties for your skin.
2. Review of the Proposed Formula (70g Base + 20g DMAE + 2g Tyrosine + 5g Natto + 5g Centella Asiatica)
Based on the formula you proposed, some ingredients are used at levels significantly higher than recommended usage rates, which could lead to issues:
- DMAE (SkinTight MD™) Liquid: The recommended usage rate is 1-10% (3% is recommended), and using above 5% may cause irritation and a sticky feeling. Using 20% as in your original proposed formula is far too high. There is a high chance of severe skin irritation and product instability.
- Centella Asiatica Extract (Madecassoside 90%): The recommended usage rate is 0.1-2% (1% is recommended), and it can dissolve in water at a rate of not more than 1%. Using 5% as in your original proposed formula is also too high. The powder may not fully dissolve and could cause irritation due to the high concentration of actives.
Furthermore, 5% Natto Gum and the liquid form of DMAE will make the mixed base, which is already somewhat fluid, even thinner. The staff already suggested adding Pro Polymer to help thicken it if needed.
Suggested Revised Formula (for 100g)
To ensure the formula is safe and effective according to the recommended usage rates of each ingredient, I recommend reducing the amounts of DMAE and Centella Asiatica.
- Mixed Base (Hyaluronic Acid Gel Base + Aloe Vera Gel (Heavy)): 86 grams (You can split the ratio of the two bases based on the amount you have, e.g., if you have 40g of Hyaluronic Base left, use 46g of Aloe Vera Base, or mix in a 1:1 ratio like 43g of each).
- DMAE (SkinTight MD™) Liquid: 5 grams (5%) - This level is expected to show lifting effects, but you should still patch test before applying to your entire face. If you feel irritation, reduce the amount to 3% or less.
- Wrinkle-Fill™ (Acetyl-Tyrosine): 2 grams (2%) - Within the recommended range.
- Natto Gum (Nutto Gum): 5 grams (5%) - Within the recommended range. Helps provide moisture and may offer slight brightening benefits.
- Centella Asiatica Extract (Madecassoside 90%): 2 grams (2%) - Within the recommended range. Helps stimulate collagen, reduce inflammation, and improve wrinkles.
Total: 100 grams
Mixing Instructions:
- Combine the Hyaluronic Acid Gel Base and Aloe Vera Gel (Heavy) in a container. Stir well until fully mixed.
- Gradually add the powdered ingredients, Wrinkle-Fill™ (Acetyl-Tyrosine) and Centella Asiatica Extract (Madecassoside 90%), to the mixed base. Stir until the powders are completely dissolved (this may take some time and intermittent stirring).
- Add the liquid ingredients, Natto Gum (Nutto Gum) and DMAE (SkinTight MD™) Liquid. Stir until all ingredients are uniformly combined.
- If the product consistency is too thin, you can gradually add a small amount of Pro Polymer (as suggested by the staff), for example, 0.5-1 gram at a time, and stir to increase viscosity.
3. Difference Between the New and Old Formulas
- Old Formula: Focused on moisture from Hyaluronic Acid Base and Hydro Protein, along with soothing and collagen-stimulating properties from Centella Asiatica.
- New Formula (Revised): Still provides good moisture from the mixed bases and Natto Gum, but adds ingredients specifically targeting lifting and wrinkle reduction like DMAE and Wrinkle-Fill™ (Acetyl-Tyrosine). The new formula is expected to show more noticeable results regarding wrinkles and firmness compared to the old one.
4. Reducing Oiliness (Sticky Feeling)
This new formula uses gel bases and primarily water-soluble ingredients, which generally do not feel oily like formulas containing oils. However, some people might feel a sticky or heavy sensation from the high levels of humectants and gelling agents.
- The revised formula suggested above has reduced the amounts of DMAE and Centella Asiatica, which will help reduce the chance of irritation and stickiness that might occur from excessive amounts in your original proposed formula.
- If you use this revised formula and it still feels too sticky or heavy for your normal to good skin, you might try slightly reducing the amount of Natto Gum, for example, from 5% to 3%. Natto Gum provides very high moisture, which could contribute to the sticky feeling.
- When adding Pro Polymer to increase viscosity as suggested by the staff, only add as much as needed to achieve your desired texture. Avoid adding too much, as this can also make the product feel heavy or sticky.
I recommend trying this revised formula first for about 2 weeks as suggested by the staff and observing the results and feel on your skin. If further adjustments are needed, such as reducing stickiness, then consider slightly reducing Natto Gum or adjusting the amount of Pro Polymer.
Related Products Mentioned
Aloe Vera Gel (Heavy)
Natto Gum Extract
Wrinkle-Fill™ (Acetyl-Tyrosine)
DMAE (SkinTight MD™) Liquid