Essence Formulation Questions: Pore Tightening, Stability, Mixing, and EDTA

Essence Formula for Brightening, Moisturizing, Wrinkle Reduction, and Tightening Feel

Thank you for the information and your trial results! It is very helpful for refining the formula. Based on the Essence formula you have developed and your further questions, here is my advice:

Formula Review and Adjustments

Your Essence formula already contains excellent ingredients for skin brightening, moisturizing, and wrinkle reduction. Notably, Vitamin B3 (Niacinamide), N-Acetylglucosamine, and Alpha Arbutin are key active ingredients for achieving skin radiance. Your chosen concentrations (4%, 4%, 1%) are effective for these purposes.

Based on your trial results where the original formula with 3% each of Aloe Vera Extract and Natural Moisturizing Amino Acids felt heavy and slow to absorb, your plan to reduce these two ingredients to 1% each is a very appropriate adjustment. This will help make the Essence texture lighter and more comfortable on the skin while still providing moisturization.

Liftnow (Pullulan) is included specifically to provide an immediate tightening or lifting sensation, which directly addresses your desire for that "tight" feel upon application.

Regarding Galactomyces Ferment Filtrate (Pitera) and odor: It is true that fermented ingredients can sometimes develop a noticeable odor over time. Whether the Sakura fragrance would mask it depends on the strength of both the ingredient's odor and the fragrance, as well as personal sensitivity. If you choose not to include fragrance, be aware that the natural scent of the Pitera might become more apparent. Using Pitera at 10% is a good concentration for its skin-conditioning benefits.

Specific Questions:

1. Pore Tightening: You asked about adding ingredients for pore tightening, specifically Vitamin B6. Your formula already contains Vitamin B3 (Niacinamide) at 4%, which is a well-known ingredient for improving pore appearance by enhancing skin elasticity and helping to regulate oil production over time. While Vitamin B6 can also contribute to overall skin health, Vitamin B3 at this concentration is already actively working towards the pore-tightening goal as part of improving overall skin condition. Focusing on the current effective ingredients and ensuring balanced hydration and oil control is key for pore appearance.
2. Necessity of EDTA: Yes, even when using distilled water, including Disodium EDTA at a low concentration (like your 0.2%) is still recommended. It acts as a chelating agent, helping to bind any trace metal ions that might be present or introduced during the process or from other ingredients. This helps maintain the stability and efficacy of the formula and can also support the preservative system.
3. Vitamin B6 (Electrolyte) and Formula Stability/EDTA: As discussed previously, ingredients that are electrolytes, like Vitamin B6, primarily affect the viscosity or thickness of formulas that rely on certain gelling agents. They don't inherently make the product spoil faster if it is properly preserved. Disodium EDTA's role here is to chelate metal ions, which helps prevent oxidation and supports the preservative, but it doesn't counteract the effect of electrolytes on thickeners. In a thin essence formula like this, the electrolyte nature of Vitamin B6 is less of a concern for stability, but its impact on texture (if any) would be separate from preservation.
4. Mixing Order: For a water-based essence like yours, a typical mixing order is:
   • Combine the main water phase ingredients (Distilled Water, Disodium EDTA, Liftnow, Galactomyces Ferment Filtrate, Vitamin B3, N-Acetylglucosamine, Alpha Arbutin, Natural Moisturizing Amino Acids, Aloe Vera Extract). Stir or mix until everything is fully dissolved and homogeneous.
   • If using fragrance, premix the fragrance oil with the solubilizer (Flora Solve Clear). Ensure the mixture is clear before adding to the water phase. (Note: You mentioned considering removing fragrance, which would simplify this step).
   • Add the preservative (Nature Preserve) to the main water phase.
   • If you prepared the fragrance/solubilizer mix separately, add it to the main water phase and mix well.
   • Check the pH and adjust if necessary (though with these ingredients, it might be within an acceptable range).
5. Bottle Cleaning: Your method of rinsing new bottles with alcohol and letting them drain is a good practice for ensuring cleanliness before filling with your product. Using diluted alcohol or even just distilled water and allowing them to drain thoroughly is appropriate for new containers. For previously used bottles, more thorough cleaning and sterilization would be necessary.

I hope this advice helps you perfect your Essence formula!