Essence Formulation Review and Troubleshooting

Question

I am formulating an essence for normal skin with dry cheeks, oily T-zone, minor acne, melasma, and wrinkles. My goals are moisture, anti-aging, and brightening, aiming for a lightweight, non-sticky texture. I am using Pro Polymer as a gelling agent.

I have the following questions:

Can you review or suggest a suitable formula for my skin type and goals? (Context: The staff provided a formula suggestion)
If I use Pro Polymer, is it sufficient to incorporate Essential Oil into the water phase, or do I still need a solubilizer like Flora Solve™ Clear?
Do I need to add a preservative to the formula? If so, which one and at what percentage? (I understand Disodium EDTA is not a broad-spectrum preservative).
What are the correct mixing steps for creating this essence using Pro Polymer and incorporating the oil phase?

MySkinRecipes Expert · Accepted Answer

Subject: Essence Formula Review

Hello! Thank you for sharing your essence formula and skin details. The staff has reviewed your formula and proposed a revised version tailored to your skin type (normal, dry cheeks, oily T-zone, minor acne, melasma, wrinkles) and goals (moisture, anti-aging, brightening) while aiming for a lightweight feel.

Here is the revised formula proposed by the staff:

Galactomyces Ferment Filtrate (Pitera): 30.00%
Safe-B3 (Vitamin B3, Niacinamide): 5.00%
GlucoBright (N-Acetyl-D-glucosamine): 4.00%
MOIST24 (Glycereth-26): 5.00%
Papaya Enzyme (Papain): 1.00%
Pro Polymer (Gel Maker): 1.00%
Essential Oil: 0.50%
Disodium EDTA: 0.20%
Water: Remaining percentage (adjust to 100%)

Regarding your preference for natural ingredients:
The revised formula includes several ingredients derived from natural sources, such as Galactomyces Ferment Filtrate, Papaya Enzyme, and Essential Oil. However, some key ingredients like Safe-B3 (Niacinamide), GlucoBright (N-Acetyl-D-glucosamine), Pro Polymer, Disodium EDTA, and MOIST24 are synthetic or chemically modified. The staff mentioned that MOIST24 is 100% synthetic, added to enhance hydration without stickiness. The original formula's Hydro Protein and liftnow were removed to potentially improve texture.

Addressing your other questions:

Essential Oil and Water Solubility: The staff confirmed that with Pro Polymer included in the formula, it will help emulsify the Essential Oil into the water phase, so you do not need an additional solubilizer like Flora Solve™ Clear.
Preservative: Yes, a preservative is necessary, especially if you do not store the product in the refrigerator. Disodium EDTA is a chelating agent, not a broad-spectrum preservative. The staff recommends adding Phenoxyethanol SA at 1% to ensure the product remains stable and safe from microbial growth.

Mixing Instructions:
Based on the staff's guidance, here are the steps to mix the essence:

Combine all the water-soluble ingredients (Galactomyces Ferment Filtrate, Safe-B3, GlucoBright, MOIST24, Papaya Enzyme, Disodium EDTA, Water, and the recommended preservative like Phenoxyethanol SA) in a container.
Mix or stir until everything is dissolved and well combined.
Slowly add the Pro Polymer (Gel Maker) while continuously mixing or stirring vigorously. Continue mixing until the gel texture is formed and the Pro Polymer is fully dispersed.
In a separate small container, you may mix the Essential Oil with a tiny amount of the gel base if needed, or add it directly to the main gel mixture.
Mix or stir thoroughly to ensure the Essential Oil is evenly dispersed throughout the gel.

Please ensure all equipment is clean and sanitized before starting.

I hope this helps you create your essence! Let me know if you have further questions.