Essence Formulation: Rough Texture, Pilling, and Moisturizer Alternatives
Question
I have formulated an essence for use before serum and cream with the following formula. The resulting essence has a slightly viscous texture after adding Water Film. When applied to the skin, the essence feels rough, and when rubbed, it peels off in flakes.
My questions are:
- Is the rough texture due to the inclusion of Water Film? Can this be fixed?
- If Water Film is not used, what alternative ingredient (other than Hyaluronic Acid Nano) can be used to enhance skin hydration?
Formula:
- น้ำกลั่น (สำหรับเครื่องสำอาง) 76%
- water lock 2.00%
- Water Film 5.00%
- Moist 24 8.00%
- Safe-B3™ (Vitamin B3, Niacinamide) 4.00%
- GlucoBright™ (N-Acetyl-D Glucosamine) 4.00%
- สารกันเสีย Phenoxyethanol (Optiphen) 1.00%
Answer
Essence Formulation Feedback
Thank you for sharing your essence formulation. The issue you're experiencing with the essence feeling rough and pilling on the skin after application is likely due to the inclusion of Water Film (Galactoarabinan).
Why Water Film might be causing pilling:
Water Film is a film-forming ingredient that creates a thin layer on the skin to help reduce water loss. While effective for hydration, film-forming ingredients, especially at higher concentrations or in lighter, more liquid formulations like essences, can sometimes cause pilling or flaking when rubbed or when layered with other products. The product description for Water Film notes that it is more suitable for thicker formulas (gels or creams) and may cause flaking in liquid formulas or when used during the day. Your formula uses 5% Water Film in an essence, which could contribute to this issue.
Can it be fixed?
Yes, you can address this issue.
- Adjust Water Film concentration: Try reducing the concentration of Water Film in your essence formula. Using a lower percentage (e.g., 1-2%) might reduce the tendency to pill while still providing some film-forming benefits.
- Change product type: Consider using this ingredient in a thicker product like a gel or cream, or in an overnight treatment product, where pilling is less likely to be an issue.
Alternative Moisturizers:
If you prefer to remove Water Film from your essence, your formula already contains excellent moisturizing ingredients:
- MOIST24 (Glycereth-26): This is a highly effective humectant that helps the skin retain moisture throughout the day and also improves the texture and feel of the product. Your formula includes it at a good percentage (8%).
- WaterLock™ (Polyquaternium-51): This ingredient is designed to mimic skin's natural phospholipids, helping to prevent water loss and providing a smooth feel.
These ingredients already provide significant hydration benefits. If you remove Water Film, you can rely on MOIST24 and WaterLock for moisture, or potentially slightly increase their percentages if you feel more hydration is needed, while staying within their recommended usage rates. Other humectants like Glycerin or Sodium PCA could also be considered, but MOIST24 is often preferred for its texture benefits.
Related Products Mentioned
Safe-B3™ (Vitamin B3, Niacinamide)
GlucoBright™ (Acetyl Glucosamine)
Phenoxyethanol (Extra Pure)
WaterLock™ (Polyquaternium-51)
Purified Water, TDS Limit 1PPM)
Water-Film™ (Galactoarabinan)