Essence/Pre-Serum Formulation for Light, Non-Sticky Texture

Question

I want to create an essence or pre-serum with a non-sticky texture that feels instantly absorbed into the skin after application (similar texture to Sulwhasoo First Care). The texture should be thicker than water but not as thick as a serum. I plan to use the following ingredients:

PiteraEx (Saccharomyces Lysate Extract) 1%
Hya Japan 1%
Marine Plankton 2%
Dipotassium Glycyrrhizate 1%
Calendula Extract 2%
Glycosaminoglycans 3%
DMAE 5% (Will this amount make the texture sticky? If so, I will reduce it to 3%)
DMI 3%
Water (remaining amount)

Which gelling agents or other substances should I use to help the texture absorb into the skin, feel light, non-sticky, and prepare the skin for subsequent serum and cream application, to achieve the desired essence or pre-serum texture?

MySkinRecipes Expert · Accepted Answer

Essence/Pre-Serum Formulation Guidance

To achieve the desired light, non-sticky texture that absorbs quickly, while incorporating your chosen active ingredients, consider the following:

Ingredient Considerations

Your list of active ingredients is excellent for skin benefits. However, some ingredients, particularly Hyaluronic Acid and Glycosaminoglycans, naturally contribute to viscosity and can potentially feel slightly sticky, especially at higher concentrations.

Regarding your question about DMAE at 5%, the product information indicates that using DMAE above 5% may cause the formula to feel "icky" (sticky). Therefore, your suggestion to reduce the concentration to 3% is appropriate and recommended to minimize potential stickiness while still providing benefits.

Achieving the Desired Texture

To create a texture that is thicker than water but lighter than a typical serum and absorbs quickly without stickiness, you will need a suitable gelling agent. Traditional thickeners might result in a heavier or tackier feel.

Based on your requirements for a non-greasy, fast-absorbing texture, the following gelling agents are recommended:

AnyGel™: This gelling agent is specifically noted for providing a non-greasy texture that feels instantly absorbed and dries quickly on the skin. It is suitable for water-based formulas.
Aristoflex AVC: This can provide a clear gel texture for water formulas and is a good option for increasing viscosity.
Sepimax Zen: This is a highly tolerant thickener suitable for creating a gel texture in the water phase.

Using one of these gelling agents at a low percentage (start with the lower end of the recommended usage rate, typically 0.5-1.0%, and adjust as needed) will help you achieve the desired viscosity without making the product heavy or sticky.

Suggested Formulation Approach

Prepare the water phase with your active ingredients: PiteraEx (Saccharomyces Ferment Filtrate), Hyaluronic Acid (Japan), Marine Plankton, Dipotassium Glycyrrhizate, Calendula Extract, Glycosaminoglycans, and DMAE (at 3%). Also include DMI and the remaining Water.
Slowly add your chosen gelling agent (e.g., AnyGel™, Aristoflex AVC, or Sepimax Zen) to the water phase while stirring or blending until the desired texture is achieved.
Add a suitable preservative to ensure the stability and safety of the product.
Adjust the pH if necessary to be within the optimal range for the ingredients and skin compatibility (typically pH 5.0-6.0 for essences/serums).

By carefully selecting the gelling agent and controlling its concentration, you can create an essence or pre-serum with your desired ingredients that has a pleasant, non-sticky feel and absorbs quickly into the skin.