Evaluating a Skincare Cream Formulation for Barrier Repair and Brightening

Asked by: bossanova.kt On: August 19, 2023 Product Type: Cosmetics

Question

I have a formulation for a moisturizer cream using Absolue Soft Cream Base and several active ingredients (Safe-B3 4%, GlucoBright 4%, Glyceryl glucoside 2.4%, Glycyrrhetinic Acid 0.8%, Yeast Radiance 2.4%, Ectoine 1.6%, Repair Activator™ Powder 0.8%, Cera-Flux V 4%). My goals are skin strengthening, healthy radiance, and reducing irritation from sun/Retin-A. Is my proposed mixing method (adding ingredients to the base and mixing) appropriate, and is the formulation suitable for my goals?

Answer

Formulation Evaluation

This formulation is well-designed to address your goals of moisturizing, strengthening the skin barrier, promoting healthy radiance, and reducing irritation. Here's an evaluation of the ingredients and the proposed method:

The combination of active ingredients in your formula targets multiple skin concerns effectively:

  • Safe-B3 (Niacinamide) 4%: This is an excellent concentration within the recommended range. Niacinamide is a versatile ingredient known to strengthen the skin barrier, reduce redness and hyperpigmentation, improve skin texture, and provide anti-inflammatory benefits. This directly supports your goals of stronger skin, healthy radiance, and reduced irritation.
  • GlucoBright (Acetyl Glucosamine) 4%: Used at a good concentration, Acetyl Glucosamine works synergistically with Niacinamide to improve skin tone and reduce dark spots, contributing to healthy radiance. It also helps boost the skin's natural hyaluronic acid production for enhanced hydration.
  • Glycyrrhetinic Acid (Enoxolone) 0.8%: This ingredient is well-known for its anti-irritant and anti-inflammatory properties. Including it at 0.8% (within the recommended 0.1-3% range) is beneficial for calming the skin and reducing irritation, especially from sun exposure or retinoid use.
  • Yeast Radiance 2.4%: This ingredient is designed to enhance skin radiance and brightness without causing irritation. While the recommended usage is typically 3%, 2.4% should still contribute to a healthy glow.
  • Ectoine 1.6%: Ectoine is a powerful protective and repair ingredient. At 1.6% (within the recommended 0.5-2.0% range), it helps shield skin cells from environmental stress, provides moisturizing benefits, and has anti-aging and anti-irritant effects. This strongly supports skin strengthening and overall resilience.
  • Repair Activator™ (Bifida Ferment Lysate) 0.8%: Bifida Ferment Lysate is known for its potential to help with DNA repair and protect against UV damage. The typical usage rate for the liquid forms of Repair Activator™ is much higher (5-100%). You mentioned a "Powder" form; you should confirm the recommended usage rate for your specific powder product to ensure efficacy at 0.8%.
  • Cera-Flux V (Water Dispersible Ceramide Complex) 4%: Ceramides are essential lipids that make up the skin barrier. Including Cera-Flux V at 4% (within the recommended 1-15% range) is excellent for strengthening the skin barrier, improving moisture retention, and making the skin more resilient, aligning perfectly with your moisturizing and strengthening goals.
  • Absolue Soft Cream Base (compare to Lancome) 80%: This base is suitable for incorporating active ingredients and provides a pleasant texture, ideal for a moisturizing cream.

Mixing Method

Your proposed method of adding each ingredient to the Absolue Soft Cream Base and mixing is generally suitable for most of the ingredients which are water-soluble or dispersible. However, Glycyrrhetinic Acid typically requires pre-dissolving in a glycol (like Propylene Glycol or Butylene Glycol) with gentle heat (60-70°C) before being added to the main formula to ensure it is fully incorporated. Simply adding the powder directly to the cream base might result in poor dispersion.

Glyceryl Glucoside

You mentioned "Glyceryl glucoside (Japan)". While Glyceryl Glucoside is a known hydrating ingredient, a specific product matching "Glyceryl glucoside (Japan)" was not found in our database. You should ensure you are using a cosmetic-grade Glyceryl Glucoside and follow its supplier's recommended usage rate and mixing instructions.

Summary

This formulation is a potent blend of ingredients that work synergistically to achieve your desired skin benefits. The concentrations of most active ingredients are appropriate for effectiveness. Pay close attention to the mixing method for Glycyrrhetinic Acid and confirm the recommended usage rate for your specific Repair Activator™ powder product.