Evaluating Cosmetic Formulas for Whitening, Anti-aging, and Dark Circles

Asked by: wingzab_jib On: September 25, 2013 Product Type: Cosmetics

Question

I would like to create a serum for skin whitening and wrinkle reduction, as well as acne reduction. I have researched and developed the following formula:

Formula 1: Serum

  • vitamin b3 4%
  • Apple stem cell 3%
  • Nano white 5%
  • green tea extract 5%
  • pro polymer 1%
  • Phenoxyethanol 1%

Is this formula viable? Can the water-soluble ingredients be mixed together simultaneously before adding pro polymer and then Phenoxyethanol?

I also need a formula for reducing dark circles under the eyes that is lightweight and fast-absorbing:

Formula 2: Under-Eye Dark Circle Reducer

  • silicone gel 94%
  • REGU-AEG 5%
  • Phenoxyethanol 1%

Can this formula be used as is?

Finally, I want a lotion focused on skin whitening:

Formula 3: Whitening Lotion

  • b3 4%
  • Glycerin 10%
  • Light Cream Maker™ 1%
  • Phenoxyethanol 1%
  • Water 84%

Are these ingredients sufficient for making a whitening lotion?

Please review these formulas and provide recommendations if any are not suitable. Thank you.

Answer

Evaluation of Your Cosmetic Formulas

Here is an evaluation of the cosmetic formulas you've proposed for a whitening and anti-aging serum, an under-eye dark circle reducer, and a whitening lotion.

Serum for Whitening, Anti-Wrinkle, and Acne Reduction

Your proposed formula:

  • Vitamin B3 4%
  • Apple stem cell 3%
  • Nano white 5%
  • Green tea extract 5%
  • Pro polymer 1%
  • Phenoxyethanol 1%

This formula includes several good active ingredients for your goals:

  • Vitamin B3 (Niacinamide) at 4% is an effective concentration for reducing wrinkles, hyperpigmentation, and oiliness, which helps with acne.
  • Apple Stem Cell Extract at 3% is within the recommended usage range and is known for its anti-aging properties.
  • Green Tea Extract at 5% (assuming a liquid extract like Hi-EGCG™) provides antioxidant, anti-inflammatory, and oil-reducing benefits, which are helpful for acne and anti-aging. If using a powder extract like Pure-EGCG™, 5% is above the recommended maximum.
  • Pro Polymer at 1% is suitable for creating a gel or serum texture.
  • Phenoxyethanol at 1% is a standard preservative concentration.

Regarding "Nano white": The specific type and function of "Nano white" are unclear from the product information available. If its purpose is whitening, it's important to confirm it is a cosmetic active ingredient with proven efficacy and safe usage rates, not just a pigment or filler. Consider replacing it with a known whitening active if its properties are uncertain.

Mixing Method: Your proposed mixing order (water parts together, then Pro polymer, then Phenoxyethanol) is generally acceptable. Ensure you follow the specific instructions for dispersing the Pro Polymer powder you are using (some may require pre-mixing with glycerin or specific stirring methods). Also, add temperature-sensitive ingredients like Apple Stem Cell Extract and Green Tea Extract in the final cooling phase (below 40°C) and ensure the final pH is within their recommended ranges (Apple Stem Cell: 3.5-6.5, Green Tea Extract: 4.0-6.5).

Consider using a broad-spectrum preservative like Phenoxyethanol SA or Chlorphenesin / Phenoxyethanol for more comprehensive microbial protection.

Under-Eye Dark Circle Reduction

Your proposed formula:

  • Silicone gel 94%
  • REGU-AEG 5%
  • Phenoxyethanol 1%

This formula is designed to be lightweight and fast-absorbing due to the high concentration of silicone gel, which aligns with your goal.

  • Silicone gel at 94% will provide a smooth, non-greasy feel and improve spreadability.
  • REGU-AEG at 5% is an effective concentration specifically for reducing dark circles and puffiness around the eyes.
  • Phenoxyethanol at 1% provides necessary preservation.

This formula appears viable for targeting dark circles with a lightweight texture. Ensure the specific Silicone Gel you choose is suitable for use around the eyes. Mix REGU-AEG and Phenoxyethanol into the silicone gel base in the final step, ensuring the temperature is below 40°C and the pH is within REGU-AEG's recommended range (5.0-8.0, ideally 5-6.5).

Whitening Lotion

Your proposed formula:

  • B3 4%
  • Glycerin 10%
  • Light Cream Maker™ 1%
  • Phenoxyethanol 1%
  • Water 84%

This is a basic but effective formula for a whitening and moisturizing lotion:

  • Vitamin B3 (Niacinamide) at 4% is suitable for skin whitening.
  • Glycerin at 10% is a good humectant for hydration.
  • Light Cream Maker™ at 1% is within the recommended range for creating a lotion consistency without heat.
  • Phenoxyethanol at 1% provides preservation.

These ingredients are sufficient to create a basic whitening and moisturizing lotion. To enhance the feel and benefits, you could consider adding a small oil phase (e.g., 5-10%) using an oil compatible with Light Cream Maker™ to provide emollients. Mix Vitamin B3, Glycerin, and Phenoxyethanol in the water phase, then incorporate the Light Cream Maker™ according to its specific instructions. As with the serum, consider a broad-spectrum preservative for better protection.