Evaluation of Your Proposed Sunscreen Formula

Your proposed formula includes several ingredients that should help achieve your goals:

• Sun Protection: The combination of Zinc Oxide 200nm EasyDisperse™ (15%) and Titanium Dioxide 200nm EasyDisperse™ (10%) provides broad-spectrum UVA and UVB protection. Achieving SPF 50+++ with a total of 25% physical filters is possible, but the final SPF and PA rating would need to be confirmed through testing due to variations in dispersion and formulation.
• Addressing Dryness/Tightness: The addition of LipidSoft™ Moist (5%) is a good step. This emollient is designed to moisturize the skin without feeling greasy, helping to retain water and reduce the dryness you experienced. Safe-B3™ (Vitamin B3, Niacinamide) (3%) also contributes significantly by strengthening the skin barrier, adding moisture by stimulating ceramide production, and helping to reduce irritation. These two ingredients directly target the dryness and tightness issue.
• Oil Control: The silicones, Cyclomethicone and Dimethicone, are excellent for providing a smooth, non-greasy feel and helping with oil control, which you liked in the previous formula. Safe-B3™ is also known to help reduce sebum excretion, further aiding oil control. LipidSoft™ Moist is described as non-greasy and suitable for oilier skin types.

Potential Formulation Consideration

While the ingredients you've added are beneficial for addressing dryness and maintaining oil control, there is a potential consideration regarding the stability of the formula with Light Cream Maker™ (1.5%). The description for Light Cream Maker™ indicates it can emulsify up to 20% oil and bond with silicone up to 10% of the formula. Your proposed formula has a total oil/silicone phase of 30% (15% Cyclomethicone + 10% Dimethicone + 5% LipidSoft™ Moist), with 25% being silicones. This high percentage of oil/silicone, particularly the silicone content exceeding the recommended 10% for use with Light Cream Maker™, might lead to stability issues or affect the final texture. You may need to increase the concentration of Light Cream Maker™ or consider an alternative emulsifier system if you encounter separation or texture problems.

Alternative Suggestion

The staff's suggestion to use SPF Protect Ultra™ II at 15% is also a viable option for achieving SPF 50, PA++. SPF Protect Ultra™ II is a blend of chemical filters designed for high SPF with a light feel and is formulated for ease of use in sunscreen formulations. This offers a different approach to sun protection compared to using physical filters like Zinc Oxide and Titanium Dioxide.

Conclusion

Your proposed formula with the addition of LipidSoft™ Moist and Safe-B3™ is well-designed to mitigate the dryness and tightness you experienced previously while likely maintaining good oil control. The ingredients added are known for their moisturizing and barrier-supporting properties. However, pay close attention to the formulation process and the stability of the final product, as the high oil/silicone content might challenge the Light Cream Maker™ emulsifier system. Achieving SPF 50+++ would require laboratory testing of your final formulation.