Evaluation and Adjustment Suggestions for Anti-Aging Day Cream Formula
Question
I have formulated an anti-aging day cream for very dry skin and deep wrinkles. The formula includes:
- Shea Butter
- Rose Hip Oil
- Grape Seed Oil
- Sweet Almond Oil
- Coconut Oil
- MOIST72 3%
- WaterLock
- N-acetyl Glucosamine
- Argireline
- Matrixyl™ 3000
- Vitamin B3
- Kinetin 10%
- Satin Mousse™ 1%
I would like to ask for an evaluation of this formula's suitability for dry skin and deep wrinkles, suggestions for any necessary adjustments, and clarification on its short-term and long-term effectiveness. I also want to confirm if my mixing steps (combining water-soluble, heating and combining oil-soluble, then mixing phases) are correct.
Answer
Evaluation and Suggestions for Your Anti-Aging Day Cream Formula
This formula is well-designed for addressing dry skin and wrinkles, particularly for use as a daytime cream before social events. It incorporates several excellent ingredients known for their moisturizing, anti-aging, and lifting properties.
Suitability for Dry Skin and Deep Wrinkles
The formula is highly suitable for very dry skin and deep wrinkles due to the inclusion of:
- Rich Oils and Butters: Ingredients like Shea Butter, Rose Hip Oil, Grape Seed Oil, Sweet Almond Oil, and Coconut Oil provide essential fatty acids and emollients to nourish and moisturize dry skin, helping to improve its barrier function and reduce the appearance of dryness-related fine lines.
- Hydrating Actives: MOIST72 and WaterLock are included to boost hydration and prevent moisture loss, which is crucial for dry skin. N-acetyl Glucosamine also contributes to hydration by stimulating the skin's natural hyaluronic acid production.
- Anti-Aging Peptides and Actives: Argireline, Matrixyl™ 3000, Vitamin B3, and Kinetin (though see note below on concentration/availability) are powerful ingredients targeting wrinkles, skin elasticity, and overall skin health.
Recommended Adjustments
Overall, the formula is good, but a few adjustments could enhance its effectiveness and stability:
- Kinetin Concentration: The formula lists Kinetin at 10%. Based on typical usage recommendations (0.1-0.2%), this concentration is significantly higher than usually needed or advised. High concentrations might not provide additional benefits and could potentially cause issues. It is strongly recommended to reduce the Kinetin concentration to the standard effective range (0.1-0.2%). Also, note the staff's comment regarding Kinetin availability in smaller quantities.
- MOIST72 Concentration: For very dry skin, increasing the concentration of MOIST72 from 3% to 5% is recommended to maximize its long-lasting hydration benefits.
- Emulsifier (Satin Mousse™): The formula uses 1% Satin Mousse™. For a formula with a significant oil phase (10% oils + Shea Butter), 1% emulsifier might be too low to create a stable emulsion. You may need to increase the Satin Mousse™ concentration, possibly to 2-3% or more, depending on testing, to ensure the cream remains stable over time.
Effectiveness (Short-term and Long-term)
This formula is designed to provide both immediate and long-term benefits:
- Short-term: Lift-Now™ is specifically included to provide an instant skin tightening and lifting effect, which is perfect for use as a day cream before social events. Argireline may also contribute to a temporary smoothing effect by relaxing facial muscles. The rich oils, butters, MOIST72, and WaterLock will provide immediate hydration and improve the skin's texture and appearance.
- Long-term: Matrixyl™ 3000 works over several weeks to stimulate collagen production, leading to a reduction in the depth and appearance of wrinkles over time. Vitamin B3 and N-acetyl Glucosamine improve skin barrier function, reduce hyperpigmentation, and enhance overall skin health, contributing to long-term anti-aging effects. The nourishing oils and butters also provide sustained benefits for skin health and elasticity.
Your mixing steps (combining water-soluble ingredients, heating and combining oil-soluble ingredients, then mixing the phases) are generally correct for creating an emulsion.
By making the suggested adjustments, you can create a potent day cream that effectively addresses dryness, provides an immediate lifting effect for social occasions, and works over time to reduce the appearance of deep wrinkles.
Related Products Mentioned
Acetyl Hexapeptide-8 (eq Argireline)
Pal-GHK, Pal-GQPR (eq Matrixyl 3000)
Safe-B3™ (Vitamin B3, Niacinamide)
GlucoBright™ (Acetyl Glucosamine)
Shea Butter (Refined , Deodorised)
Phenoxyethanol (Extra Pure)
Satin Cream Maker™
MOIST72™
WaterLock™ (Polyquaternium-51)
Lift-Now™
Rose Hip Oil (Virgin, Fresh)