Evaluation of a Custom Cream Formula for Post-Acne Skin: Ingredients, Feel, and Calculation

Cream Formulation After Acne Clears: Evaluation and Recommendations

Thank you for your follow-up questions and the revised formula. This formula is packed with potent Active Ingredients focused on anti-aging, firming, and brightening, suitable for use after acne issues have resolved and the skin is healthy.

Evaluation of Your Revised Formula

Your formula includes many interesting ingredients, particularly peptides and extracts with strong anti-aging and skin-benefiting properties:

• Peptides: Such as SNAP-8®, Syn-Ake, Leuphasyl, Matrixyl™ 3000, and Pepha®-Tight. Combining multiple peptides with different mechanisms (e.g., reducing muscle contraction, stimulating collagen synthesis) enhances the overall effectiveness in reducing wrinkles and improving firmness. The percentages you've included are quite high, which offers the potential for visible results, but caution is needed regarding ingredient compatibility and the risk of irritation for some skin types.
• Nourishing and Antioxidant Ingredients: Vitamin B3 (Niacinamide), Apple Stem Cell Extract, Ectoin®, Green Tea Extract (EGCG), and MSM help with brightening, reducing redness/dark spots, strengthening the skin barrier, controlling oil, and protecting against free radicals.
• Base: Hyaluronic Acid Nano provides deep hydration, and Light Cream Maker is an easy-to-use emulsifier for creating the cream texture.

Points to Consider:

• Willow Bark Extract (Salicylic Acid 15%) 13%: As mentioned in the previous response, this extract provides a high amount of Salicylic Acid (nearly 2%). While beneficial for exfoliation and managing pores/breakouts, for a daily facial cream used after acne has cleared, this concentration might be too high and could lead to dryness or irritation. Consider reducing the concentration or using it as a separate spot treatment or on alternate days.
• Formula Complexity: Combining a large number of active ingredients at high concentrations increases the challenge regarding formula stability and ingredient compatibility. It's important to test the compatibility of all ingredients before making a large batch.

Answers to Your Questions

1. Is this formula usable, and should anything be added or removed?

   • Yes, this formula can be used, especially when your skin has recovered from acne and is healthy.
   • The formula already contains a comprehensive and potent mix of actives for your stated goals. Adding more might not significantly improve results and could increase the risk of irritation.
   • What you should consider is reducing the percentage of Willow Bark Extract to a level that is gentler for daily all-over facial application.

2. Where can I find Skinfeel (emollient) if the lab doesn't sell it?

   • "Skinfeel" is not a single ingredient name but describes the sensory feel of a product on the skin, often provided by emollients or sensory additives. The shop likely sells emollients or ingredients that provide a good skinfeel under different product names, such as the LipidSoft™ series or various silicones. You can ask the vendor directly for recommendations on emollients suitable for your formula or ones that provide the specific skinfeel you desire. Other cosmetic ingredient suppliers will also carry a variety of emollients.

3. How to convert percentages to grams for 100ml?

   • Certainly! For making a 100ml cream batch, the total weight is generally considered to be approximately 100 grams (as the density of cream is close to water). Therefore, converting percentages to grams for a 100ml (or 100 gram) batch is simple: just change the % sign to grams.
   • Example Calculation for a 100-gram batch:
     • You need to know the recommended usage percentage for the Light Cream Maker from the supplier first. Let's assume it's 5% for this example (please confirm the actual recommended percentage).
     • Pepha®-Tight 3% = 3 grams
     • SNAP-8® 8% = 8 grams
     • Vitamin B3 4% = 4 grams
     • Apple Stem Cell Extract 2% = 2 grams
     • Ectoin® 2% = 2 grams
     • Syn-Ake 4% = 4 grams
     • Leuphasyl 8% = 8 grams
     • Matrixyl™ 3000 5% = 5 grams
     • Willow Bark Extract 13% = 13 grams
     • Green Tea Extract 1.5% = 1.5 grams
     • MSM 3% = 3 grams
     • Light Cream Maker 5% = 5 grams
     • Total weight of these ingredients (excluding liquid base) = 58.5 grams
     • Amount of liquid base (Hyaluronic Acid Nano + water/other solvents) = 100 grams - 58.5 grams = 41.5 grams
     • You will weigh each ingredient according to the calculated grams and add the liquid base (including dissolved Hyaluronic Acid Nano and water/solvents) to reach a total of 100 grams.

Additional Advice: Making cosmetics requires precision in weighing and clean equipment/environment. If you are not entirely confident, consulting with an expert or starting with a simpler formula as recommended by the staff might be a better approach to gain experience before attempting more complex formulations.

Hope this information is helpful!