Evaluation of Skincare Formula for Oily Skin, Bumpy Acne, Redness, and Anti-aging

Asked by: near_51 On: January 02, 2018 Product Type: Cosmetics

Question

I have oily skin with bumpy acne (สิวผด) and redness. I do not have clogged pores or inflammatory acne. I am looking for a formula that also provides anti-aging benefits.

I have developed the following proposed serum formulation:

  • L-Carnitine (3%)
  • Niacinamide (Vitamin B3) (5%)
  • AcneBee™ Extra (2%)
  • Licorice Root Extract (1%)
  • N-Acetyl Glucosamine (4%)
  • Allantoin (0.2-0.5%)
  • Matrixyl™ 3000 (8%)
  • Japanese Cedar (1%)
  • Pure Aloe Vera Gel
  • Rice Vitamin (3%)
  • Phospholipid (2%)

Please evaluate this formula for its suitability and effectiveness in addressing my concerns (oily skin, bumpy acne, redness, anti-aging). Are the ingredient concentrations appropriate? Are there any potential issues or considerations?

Answer

Your proposed formulation seems well-designed to address your skin concerns: oily skin, bumpy acne, redness, and the desire for anti-aging benefits.

Here's a look at the ingredients and how they fit:

  • For Oily Skin & Acne: Ingredients like L-Carnitine (3%), Niacinamide (Vitamin B3) (5%), and AcneBee™ Extra (2%) are included, which are known to help regulate sebum production and have anti-inflammatory properties beneficial for acne-prone skin. Licorice Root Extract (1%) also provides anti-inflammatory and soothing effects.
  • For Redness: N-Acetyl Glucosamine (4%), Allantoin (0.2-0.5%), Licorice Root Extract (1%), and Niacinamide (5%) are all excellent ingredients for reducing redness and soothing irritated skin.
  • For Anti-aging: You've included strong anti-aging ingredients like Matrixyl™ 3000 (8%), Niacinamide (5%), and Japanese Cedar (1%). Matrixyl 3000 at 8% is a high and effective concentration for targeting wrinkles and improving skin elasticity. Niacinamide also contributes significantly to anti-aging by improving skin barrier function and reducing fine lines.
  • Moisture & Barrier Support: Pure Aloe Vera Gel, Rice Vitamin (3%), and Phospholipid (2%) provide hydration and support the skin barrier, which is important even for oily skin and can help with sensitivity.

Overall Assessment:
The formulation is comprehensive and uses effective concentrations of key actives. The combination of ingredients addresses multiple concerns simultaneously. The inclusion of soothing ingredients like Allantoin and Licorice helps to balance the active ingredients.

Considerations:

  • Multiple Actives: While the ingredients are generally well-tolerated, using several active ingredients at relatively high concentrations (like Niacinamide 5%, Matrixyl 3000 8%, L-Carnitine 3%, N-Acetyl Glucosamine 4%) means there's a slight potential for initial irritation, especially if your skin is sensitive. It is highly recommended to perform a patch test on a small area of skin before applying the product to your entire face.
  • Bumpy Acne (สิวผด): If your bumpy acne is Pityrosporum folliculitis (often fungal), the current formulation might help reduce inflammation and oiliness which can exacerbate it, but it doesn't contain a specific anti-fungal agent. However, the ingredients are still beneficial for overall skin health and managing symptoms often associated with สิวผด.

Conclusion:
This is a well-thought-out formula that effectively targets your concerns. The concentrations are appropriate for achieving the desired effects, particularly for anti-aging with the high percentage of Matrixyl 3000. It seems like a promising formula to try. You might not need significant changes, but pay attention to how your skin responds, especially during the first few uses, and adjust if needed.