Expert Review & Adjustment for Moisturizing Serum and Whitening Cream Formulas
Question
I have two formulas I'd like to get feedback on and some adjustments for.
Formula 1: Moisturizing and Brightening Serum (100 ml)
- Vitamin B3: 4%
- N-Acetyl Glucosamine: 4%
- Hyaluronic Standard Molecule: 0.5%
- Hyaluronic Nano Molecule: 0.5%
- Phenoxyethanol: 1%
- Water: 91%
This formula resulted in a very thin liquid. How can I make it a gel, or is it intended to be a liquid serum?
Formula 2: Whitening Face Cream (50 ml)
- Cyclomethicone: 20%
- Silicone Gel Base: 4%
- Warp Cream Maker™: 4%
- Water: 51.5%
- Alpha Arbutin: 1.5%
- Vitamin B3: 3%
- GlucoBright™: 2%
- Nanowhite: 1.5%
- Glycerin: 5%
- Phenoxyethanol: 0.5%
Warp Cream Maker™ is currently out of stock. I'm considering using Light Cream Maker™ as a substitute. What adjustments should I make to the formula when using Light Cream Maker™ instead of Warp Cream Maker™? Should I remove Silicone Gel Base and Glycerin? Could you also provide mixing instructions for the adjusted formula?
Answer
Formula Review and Mixing Instructions
Here's a review of your two formulas, along with suggested adjustments and mixing steps based on your goals and the feedback received.
Formula 1: Moisturizing and Brightening (100 ml)
Original Formula:
- Vitamin B3: 4%
- N-Acetyl Glucosamine: 4%
- Hyaluronic Standard Molecule: 0.5%
- Hyaluronic Nano Molecule: 0.5%
- Phenoxyethanol: 1%
- Water: 91%
Review and Adjustments:
As noted in the reply, this formula lacks a thickener, so it will result in a liquid or very thin gel texture. The total 1% concentration of Hyaluronic Acid (Standard and Nano) is good for hydration but might feel slightly sticky without a proper gel-forming agent.
- To keep it as a liquid serum: The current formula is suitable as a potent liquid serum.
- To make it a gel: If you prefer a gel texture, you would need to add a gel-forming agent (thickener) suitable for water-based formulas. The type and amount would depend on the desired viscosity.
Mixing Instructions (for a liquid serum):
- Combine the water, Vitamin B3, N-Acetyl Glucosamine, Hyaluronic Standard Molecule, and Hyaluronic Nano Molecule in a container.
- Stir or blend until all powders are completely dissolved. Hyaluronic Acid powders can take time to dissolve; you may need to stir periodically or refrigerate for a few hours until clear.
- Once everything is dissolved and the mixture is homogeneous, add the Phenoxyethanol and stir to combine.
- Pour into your final container.
Formula 2: Whitening Face Cream (50 ml)
Original Formula:
- Cyclomethicone: 20%
- Silicone Gel Base: 4%
- Warp Cream Maker™: 4%
- Water: 51.5%
- Alpha Arbutin: 1.5%
- Vitamin B3: 3%
- GlucoBright™: 2%
- Nanowhite: 1.5%
- Glycerin: 5%
- Phenoxyethanol: 0.5%
Review and Adjustments (Replacing Warp Cream Maker™):
When Warp Cream Maker™ is unavailable, Light Cream Maker™ is a suitable alternative, as suggested in the reply. Using Light Cream Maker™ requires some adjustments to the formula:
- Replace Warp Cream Maker™ (4%) with Light Cream Maker™ (approx. 1-1.5%): Light Cream Maker™ is a different type of emulsifier/thickener and is typically used at a lower percentage. Start with 1-1.5% and adjust if needed for desired thickness.
- Remove Silicone Gel Base (4%): Silicone Gel Base is not necessary when using Light Cream Maker™ as the primary thickener/emulsifier.
- Add LipidSoft™ or LipidSoft™ CC (approx. 5%): To compensate for removing the Silicone Gel Base and to improve texture and spreadability, add a light emollient like LipidSoft™ or LipidSoft™ CC.
- Consider removing Glycerin (5%): If you have oily skin, removing Glycerin can help prevent the cream from feeling too oily, as suggested. If you have dry skin, you can keep it.
- Nanowhite: Based on the product search, "Nanowhite" was not clearly identified as a specific product. You may need to confirm the exact ingredient or product name if you wish to include it. Assuming it's a water-soluble whitening active, it would be added to the water phase.
Modified Formula (50 ml):
- Cyclomethicone: 20%
- Light Cream Maker™: 1.5%
- LipidSoft™ CC: 5%
- Water: 65%
- Alpha Arbutin: 1.5%
- Vitamin B3: 3%
- GlucoBright™: 2%
- Nanowhite: 1.5%
- Phenoxyethanol: 0.5%
Mixing Instructions (using Light Cream Maker™):
- Water Phase: Combine water, Alpha Arbutin, Vitamin B3, GlucoBright™, and Nanowhite. Stir or blend until all powders are completely dissolved.
- Oil/Silicone Phase: In a separate container, combine Cyclomethicone, Light Cream Maker™, and LipidSoft™ CC. Stir to mix.
- Emulsification: While stirring the Oil/Silicone Phase, gradually add the Water Phase to it in small amounts. Continue stirring until the cream forms and is homogeneous. Using a blender at medium speed (below 2500 rpm) can help achieve a smooth texture.
- Add Preservative: Once the cream is formed and cooled (if any heating was used, though Light Cream Maker™ works without heat), add the Phenoxyethanol and stir to combine.
- Pour into your final container.
Remember to perform a challenge test on your final product to ensure the preservative system is effective.
Related Products Mentioned
Alpha Arbutin (Switzerland)
Safe-B3™ (Vitamin B3, Niacinamide)
GlucoBright™ (Acetyl Glucosamine)
Light Cream Maker™
Glycerin (USP/Food Grade)
Phenoxyethanol (Extra Pure)
Warp Cream Maker™ (e.q. Nikkomulese wo)