Expert Review & Adjustment for Moisturizing Serum and Whitening Cream Formulas

Asked by: piyathida_23 On: August 13, 2014 Product Type: Cosmetics

Question

I have two formulas I'd like to get feedback on and some adjustments for.

Formula 1: Moisturizing and Brightening Serum (100 ml)

  • Vitamin B3: 4%
  • N-Acetyl Glucosamine: 4%
  • Hyaluronic Standard Molecule: 0.5%
  • Hyaluronic Nano Molecule: 0.5%
  • Phenoxyethanol: 1%
  • Water: 91%

This formula resulted in a very thin liquid. How can I make it a gel, or is it intended to be a liquid serum?

Formula 2: Whitening Face Cream (50 ml)

  • Cyclomethicone: 20%
  • Silicone Gel Base: 4%
  • Warp Cream Maker™: 4%
  • Water: 51.5%
  • Alpha Arbutin: 1.5%
  • Vitamin B3: 3%
  • GlucoBright™: 2%
  • Nanowhite: 1.5%
  • Glycerin: 5%
  • Phenoxyethanol: 0.5%

Warp Cream Maker™ is currently out of stock. I'm considering using Light Cream Maker™ as a substitute. What adjustments should I make to the formula when using Light Cream Maker™ instead of Warp Cream Maker™? Should I remove Silicone Gel Base and Glycerin? Could you also provide mixing instructions for the adjusted formula?

Answer

Formula Review and Mixing Instructions

Here's a review of your two formulas, along with suggested adjustments and mixing steps based on your goals and the feedback received.

Formula 1: Moisturizing and Brightening (100 ml)

Original Formula:

  • Vitamin B3: 4%
  • N-Acetyl Glucosamine: 4%
  • Hyaluronic Standard Molecule: 0.5%
  • Hyaluronic Nano Molecule: 0.5%
  • Phenoxyethanol: 1%
  • Water: 91%

Review and Adjustments:
As noted in the reply, this formula lacks a thickener, so it will result in a liquid or very thin gel texture. The total 1% concentration of Hyaluronic Acid (Standard and Nano) is good for hydration but might feel slightly sticky without a proper gel-forming agent.

  • To keep it as a liquid serum: The current formula is suitable as a potent liquid serum.
  • To make it a gel: If you prefer a gel texture, you would need to add a gel-forming agent (thickener) suitable for water-based formulas. The type and amount would depend on the desired viscosity.

Mixing Instructions (for a liquid serum):

  1. Combine the water, Vitamin B3, N-Acetyl Glucosamine, Hyaluronic Standard Molecule, and Hyaluronic Nano Molecule in a container.
  2. Stir or blend until all powders are completely dissolved. Hyaluronic Acid powders can take time to dissolve; you may need to stir periodically or refrigerate for a few hours until clear.
  3. Once everything is dissolved and the mixture is homogeneous, add the Phenoxyethanol and stir to combine.
  4. Pour into your final container.

Formula 2: Whitening Face Cream (50 ml)

Original Formula:

  • Cyclomethicone: 20%
  • Silicone Gel Base: 4%
  • Warp Cream Maker™: 4%
  • Water: 51.5%
  • Alpha Arbutin: 1.5%
  • Vitamin B3: 3%
  • GlucoBright™: 2%
  • Nanowhite: 1.5%
  • Glycerin: 5%
  • Phenoxyethanol: 0.5%

Review and Adjustments (Replacing Warp Cream Maker™):
When Warp Cream Maker™ is unavailable, Light Cream Maker™ is a suitable alternative, as suggested in the reply. Using Light Cream Maker™ requires some adjustments to the formula:

  • Replace Warp Cream Maker™ (4%) with Light Cream Maker™ (approx. 1-1.5%): Light Cream Maker™ is a different type of emulsifier/thickener and is typically used at a lower percentage. Start with 1-1.5% and adjust if needed for desired thickness.
  • Remove Silicone Gel Base (4%): Silicone Gel Base is not necessary when using Light Cream Maker™ as the primary thickener/emulsifier.
  • Add LipidSoft™ or LipidSoft™ CC (approx. 5%): To compensate for removing the Silicone Gel Base and to improve texture and spreadability, add a light emollient like LipidSoft™ or LipidSoft™ CC.
  • Consider removing Glycerin (5%): If you have oily skin, removing Glycerin can help prevent the cream from feeling too oily, as suggested. If you have dry skin, you can keep it.
  • Nanowhite: Based on the product search, "Nanowhite" was not clearly identified as a specific product. You may need to confirm the exact ingredient or product name if you wish to include it. Assuming it's a water-soluble whitening active, it would be added to the water phase.

Modified Formula (50 ml):

  • Cyclomethicone: 20%
  • Light Cream Maker™: 1.5%
  • LipidSoft™ CC: 5%
  • Water: 65%
  • Alpha Arbutin: 1.5%
  • Vitamin B3: 3%
  • GlucoBright™: 2%
  • Nanowhite: 1.5%
  • Phenoxyethanol: 0.5%

Mixing Instructions (using Light Cream Maker™):

  1. Water Phase: Combine water, Alpha Arbutin, Vitamin B3, GlucoBright™, and Nanowhite. Stir or blend until all powders are completely dissolved.
  2. Oil/Silicone Phase: In a separate container, combine Cyclomethicone, Light Cream Maker™, and LipidSoft™ CC. Stir to mix.
  3. Emulsification: While stirring the Oil/Silicone Phase, gradually add the Water Phase to it in small amounts. Continue stirring until the cream forms and is homogeneous. Using a blender at medium speed (below 2500 rpm) can help achieve a smooth texture.
  4. Add Preservative: Once the cream is formed and cooled (if any heating was used, though Light Cream Maker™ works without heat), add the Phenoxyethanol and stir to combine.
  5. Pour into your final container.

Remember to perform a challenge test on your final product to ensure the preservative system is effective.